RTW ’24: On The Road Again

Volunteering at the village school house is such a rewarding experience, but the one and a half hour bus ride each way proved to be taxing. Three hours in a bumpy, crowded bus isn’t the most ideal form of transportation, but I did what I needed to do to get there! Thankfully, I snagged a seat both ways, though I felt bad for the riders who had to stand the whole way. On Monday, I spent my day at the school with three year olds– 6 girls and 1 boy. Edwardo, the sole boy, was very smart but had a difficult time paying attention and staying in his seat. I did my best to help him focus, but his energetic spirit got the best of him! The teacher in the room was patient and well prepared. She taught numbers, vocabulary, and the letter “u”. I helped the students with workbooks on each topic, doing a craft with numbers, and supervised when the teacher took a much-needed break after the children ate lunch. Everything was in Spanish, so their lessons even helped me!

The bus ride challenge continued into Tuesday. I was seated in a window seat, cramped next to a guy who was sleeping the whole way. He kept getting closer and closer to me as the ride moved along, and I was getting more and more uncomfortable. At one point we hit a big bump in the road, and his head hit the seat in front of him making a sound. He woke up and shifted away from me, only to fall back to sleep shortly thereafter, sleepily encroaching on my space again. It wasn’t intentional, but I came up with a new strategy for my next bus ride anyway– search for an aisle seat. Once the ride was over, Sonja and I departed the bus and made our way to the soup kitchen. I had bought kitchen gives and potato peelers for the both of us, which very much came in handy since we peeled soooo many potatoes! We needed less instructions than the week before and felt like we were contributing more instead of slowing down the process. Gladys was, as always, very helpful and patient with us. When we bagged onions into individual takeaway bags, however, Gladys rejected some of our picks. She informed us that some weren’t full enough while others were sprouted and should be planted instead. She runs a tight kitchen with high standards! As Sonja and I worked away in the kitchen, our conversation flowed effortlessly. THere’s something about chopping and peeling for hours that makes stories flow so easily! Life experience and insights and struggles are somehow more easily shared in a kitchen with busy hands and heaps of food. When our coordinator came to collect us, we were still busy serving and preparing takeaway meals that we didn’t even realize what time it was!

I’ve settled into a good routine: early breakfast, long bus ride, alternating between the soup kitchen and school, then back home. There’s peace in a good routine and it helps me feel more settled and balanced. I’ve been feeling more comfortable and prepared in both of my volunteer atmospheres, as well as incredibly thankful for the other volunteers that work with me. On Wednesday, I returned to the school. The school itself has no heat, and the village is situated at the top of exposed hills with no vegetation or shelter from the elements. THe teachers wear coats in the classroom and the students all wear jackets with the school’s logo. The school building has a central courtyard with bathrooms and a common area. There’s no grass or play areas to speak of. It’s good that the central area is self-contained and the outside door is locked, so the kids are safe to walk within the school building. There’s no school cafeteria, either. Instead, everyone brings their own lunch. It’s a far different atmosphere than what we are used to in the US. In the middle of the week, Sonja and I had a lesson plan prepared for 4th graders that Renzo (volunteer coordinator) introduced in Spanish, then Sonja and I presented the materials and played a game to reinforce the topic. Halfway through the lesson, Renzo told us that he had to leave to check in on someone else. It left us in a lurch. The 4th graders knew some English, but we struggled quite a bit to continue without him. We finished the lesson on food items, but wondered when Renzo would return. In the meantime, the class’s teacher informed us that the school was having their earthquake drill so classes had to take a break. We observed everyone gathering in an open area reviewing something, all in Spanish. After the drill, we still had twenty minutes left, so we played “hangman” with English food words. During the day, we recognized a few words that are spelled differently in different English-speaking countries. Peru’s English uses the British spellings, so we followed suit. On my bus ride home, I reflected on how wonderful it was to see all of the children laughing and smiling, working together to learn new concepts. It really is so fulfilling to help teach!

Outside of my volunteer work, I’ve gotten time to explore Lima and spend time with those around me. On Friday night, I visited a different district in Lima to celebrate my birthday a little early with some friends. It was so much fun to get a little dressed up and go out for a dinner on a Friday night! Sonja, Emila and Alisha joined me for the celebration. Emila, who’s Peruvian, helped us order at restaurant Javier in Barranco. The district happens to be the same district that one of the top restaurants in the world, Central, is located. I’m so grateful for the friendships I’ve made in Per, and it was nice to celebrate my birthday in a new place with new friends. The following day, on my actual birthday, I packed the day with things to do! In the morning I shared an Uber ridge into Central Lima with Gaby. Midway through the drive, we had to stop for gas. They use an aftermarket valve at the engine, not a nozzle on the side of the car. It was so strange, and I still haven’t found out why! Ever since, I’ve been looking at cars to see if they have a gas nozzle opening on either side… and some do, while others don’t. It remains a mystery! After our ride, we walked around with IVHQ staff person Kaylia, then I branched off on my own. It was a sunny afternoon, and the plaza by the royal palace was open. I saw a wedding procession, including a traditional band and parade! It was so cool! To top it off, throughout the day, I heard from so many friends and family, making my birthday so special. I received Facebook posts, messages, digital cards and even phone calls– I felt so loved and supported while exploring the world, and it was the perfect gift for me.

To finish off my birthday weekend, I found a bike to ride! I was so excited to get bike miles in on a new continent! I took an Uber into the city early, thankfully traffic free. There was only one other person on the bike riding tour (Derek, from the Netherlands– seemed fitting!). Our guide, Sandy, led us on a wonderful tour through the city. Normally, traffic is crazy downtown, but because it was a Sunday it was a little less so. I, luckily, picked a good time for a bike tour. For most of the ride there were dedicated bike lanes, making our trip easy. The tour took us along the coast, which was breathtakingly beautiful. There were even surfers in the water! We finished the bike tour in Barranco. There’s so much street art there, and because it was a weekend, there were a lot of families and people making it a really fun atmosphere. I really loved it! Getting around on the bike allowed me to cover so much more of the city and I felt like a local. It was a great way to wrap up my birthday weekend– on a bike, in a place I love.

The following week began with more volunteer work at the soup kitchen. As Sonja and I were working, peeling and chopping away, we realized we both needed to use the restroom. There isn’t one at the soup kitchen, so Vivian gave us keys and pointed us in a general direction. We walked across the dirt street and tried matching keys to small doors and structures that we thought looked like public restrooms. Without signs, there really was no way of knowing. It felt weird to try and open random doors, but we were in need of a restroom so we did what we had to do! We put the key into the last door, and as fate would have it, it did not turn. A second or two later, a partially dressed man opened the door. We were more than a little surprised, and quite embarrassed. We just kept say “lo siento” (sorry), and then ran back to the soup kitchen. Sonja tried to explain to Vivian in Spanish and sign language that we didn’t find the bano. Vivian walked us back over to the last door, knocked, and the same man answered the door. To our surprise, again, we walked in! It was, in fact, Gladys home. We used the bathroom, then apologized to the partially dressed man for intruding. As we were leaving, Gladys pulled up in a taxi. She recognized us, gave us hugs, and we briefly chatted before returning to our kitchen duties. It was one of those encounters that only happens when you’re traveling and trying to cover your basic needs– a funny, memorable moment!

On the bus ride home, I recalled the dirt road I ran across, which brought up several other moments where the volunteers, and myself, commented on how poor the Pachacutec Village is compared to Lime and our Western hometowns. I reflected on the word “poor”, the assumption being that poor means financial lacking according to western standards. But, when I thought deeper, I realized that I believe “poor” can apply to other areas like well-being and happiness. Yes, we all have a basic hierarchy of needs: food, shelter and safety. But, there’s poor in spirit, poor in love, and even poor in health. After the bathroom episode today, I remembered seeing villages in Africa with no indoor plumbing or electricity in their homes. Poor is such a relative word dependant upon perspective. I felt such a warmth and generosity in all of the faces that I passed on my walks to the schools and soup kitchens– a warmth I often don’t even receive in the States. I’ve even noticed quite a few dogs roaming around. They seem like street dogs, roaming without any owners nearby, but they are all wearing coats, so I’m not entirely sure if they are ownerless or not. It’s another endearing aspect of the caring culture– someone thought about the dogs and gave them coats to stay warm. Maybe they have owners, maybe they don’t… but someone gifted them coats. It’s easy to judge a community on the standards we’re accustomed to at home, but we travel to open our minds and hearts to new places, cultures, and personal encounters. My eyes have been opened to the deeper meaning of richness and hospitality in Peru.

On Tuesday, I embarked on a new volunteering endeavor: construction work! It was my first time doing a construction project with Moises (a volunteer from Arizona). Moises, Marcelo (coordinator) and I finished painting the outside of an older man, Richard’s, home. Richard is partially blind with physical limitations, so the help was needed and appreciated. We used bright azul (blue) paint, then we scoped out the tools and work needed to replace the roof over his bedroom. The existing roof had several holes that had been unsuccessfully covered with packing tape. We had new panels, but no roofing screws, silicone, or a screw gun. So, we temporarily put the panels over the holes and secured them with rocks. Though I was only working that job for one day, Moises would be there all week, and he would properly fix the patch job later. Our last task of the day was to straighten up an area, picking up debris. As a bonus, I was happy to visit with the kitten Richard had. I enjoyed working with Moises, who has a background in construction in the US. The standards and conditions in Peru are very different, but he had a good eye for how to use the tools and materials he had on hand. Each day, another volunteer helped out at the home, and he was able to replace the roof and finish the project. It was great to know that Richard would have a dry, safe place to sleep!

Aside from helping others, I’ve also been mindful of making time to take care for myself. I’ve been going to the gym every afternoon for a few reasons. I could feel my strength and stamina improve, giving me confidence for my upcoming Machu Picchu hike. It also gives me some alone time after volunteering and living in a group house situation. As an added bonus, I like the feeling of having a routine that seems like I’m living in Lima, not just being a tourist. As a challenge to myself, and to help me communicate with those around me, I was taking Spanish lessons. Learning a language has never been a strong suit of mine. The private lessons with Gaby were helpful to get the phrases needed during my volunteer work, and I was incredibly thankful that she took the time to work with me. Outside of the lessons, I learned colors from playing Uno with the kids at the refuge, repeating them over and over again. I’ve definitely improved my skills from the combination of practicing, the lessons, and picking up phrases I’ve heard. I’m better prepared to travel by myself… but I know that Google translate is always an option if I get into a real jam!

Friday marked my last day volunteering. During the last bus ride back to Lima, I reflected on my experiences at the schools, the soup kitchen, the refuge and the construction project. I really enjoyed the varied activities, which gave me different glimpses into everyday life in Lima and Pachacutec. Although both schools, Los Angeles and Alfonso, were cold and drafty, they both had a warmth from the generous hearts of everyone there. Getting hugs from students as we entered the school, seeing a teacher gently guide a student back to their desk, seeing one student comforting another whose feelings were hurt, hearing the giggles from another classroom, the boy who visited every room during lunch to share perfume with me and the students were just a select few fond memories I’ll hold close to my heart. With the older kids, the competitive side of the Peruvian culture shone through. On two occasions, we played boys against girls and they took it so seriously! Everyone was respectful and eager to learn the concepts to compete on the winning side. Renzo, the coordinator and translator, made all the difference. Whenever he said “chicas, attencion!” it was followed with guidance, teaching and affirmation. I could feel it even though I didn’t understand the majority of his words. The feeling was present and the students responded in kind, which goes beyond spoken word. Because the older students spoke some English, I felt I could have more of an impact with the small lessons I presented which was surprising to me because it was grammar, not a strong suit for me. The experience of being a teacher’s aide in the classroom really stretched my comfort zone, but it was very rewarding. Teaching in the younger age classrooms felt like it helped my Spanish skills more than I helped them. Sonja complemented me on my American pronunciation and my penmanship on the whiteboard. (Sidebar: cursive penmanship is very much alive and well in Peru for both the teachers AND the students!) Overall, the classroom days demanded more of me, but were also very rewarding.

Though I will remember all of the kids fondly, a few memories and moments with some have stuck with me. Balantino, a five year old boy at Alfonso, always had the answers to everything. He would raise his hand up high with so much confidence! Emerson, a 15 year old boy, was so competitive and full of enthusiasm. His more mature side came out, however, when he met his girlfriend. He had a hickie he was covering up with is hoodie by saying how cold (fraise) it was, but it was rather obvious what was happening. During class, he sat next to his chicca, and in between lessons he managed to cut the end of her beauty ebony hair, a gesture she welcomed. Young love! Tationia, a 5 year old girl, had a gorgeous round face with big smiling eyes. She loved to talk with me every that I was there. At first, I tried interrupting her to say that I didn’t understand Spanish, but she just went on and on. I realized that she didn’t need me to understand her words, she just needed to be heard, so I smiled, and listened, and did just that. Each day, she had so much to tell me, and it didn’t matter to her a bit that I didn’t understand or give comprehensive responses. It was about her sharing what needed to be said. It was such a valuable lesson for me! There were two quiet girls, one in the 8-9 year old class and one in the 15-16 year old class. Though I didn’t catch their names, I remember their faces. They reminded me of myself at their age in school. They were not outspoken and remained in the classroom during lunch break, working in their workbooks. Sonja and I speculated that maybe the younger girl didn’t have food from home and didn’t want to call attention to that, but it could have been for any number of reasons. I could see myself in her quiet solitude and that feeling of just making it through the day.

When I was Gladys and Vivian at the soup kitchen, I felt like I was visiting my favorite aunties, cooking in my grandmother’s (Beatrice Elder) kitchen. Each time Sonja and I arrived, we thought we knew what to expect… but the menu was always slightly different than the time before, so the meal prep changed with it. THe first week we had to dice onions and butcher frozen chickens, which was a legitimate struggle for Sonja, a long-time vegetarian. WHen the two chickens were put on the cutting blocks, we watched Gladys show us how to cut them. Then, it was our turn. I offered to cut both when I saw Sonja wince at the sight and sounds of the carcass breaking, splayed on the table. But, Sonja persevered, repeating the mantra “this is the cultural experience I was seeking”. I struggled with the fact that the meat was completely still frozen, numbing my hands. When the third and fourth frozen chicken came out, we both just laughed and said “we can do anything!”. The common thread tying all of the projects and people, adult and children alike, together, was the warm and generous heart behind them.

Sonja and I became fast friends and decided to spend more time together. On Saturday, we embarked on a new journey: a Peru hop tour! I’ll be able to see more places in Peru and be a real tourist on a tour, following an itinerary and throwing my own agenda to the wind. It felt weird at first after all of my time spent volunteering to just follow directions and not have to figure out any travel logistics, but I settled in quickly. The first day was packed with exciting adventures– a boat ride to Ballestas Islands, a dune buggy ride, sand boarding and sunset at the dunes. I didn’t realize how much I missed seeing a blue sky and the sun until I was on the boat. Though I’m learning to call many places home, my heart feels most at home on the water. It refreshed my soul! The dune buggy ride was a lot of fun, and sliding down a sand dune on a board was very exciting until the very end when I hit my chin on the tip of the board. Rookie mistake. It hurt pretty bad in the moment, but turned into just a sore inside of my mouth. I’m thankful to my body for healing quickly.

The second day of the tour was just as exciting as the first, but for a very different reason. We encountered a few transportation challenges. The hop experience is really interesting, and overall, we like it. It’s a hop on/hop off bus that books only tourists, not locals, covering stops from Lima to Cusco with interesting overnight stops along the way. There’s an app where you can build an individual itinerary, allowing for stop overs for one night or multiple nights depending on your interests. Accommodations and cafes are partnered with the services. Some tourist attractions are included in the price an additional activities can be booked at additional cost, again, depending on your interests. The bus you get on initially is not the bust that you stay on, and if an activity runs late, they are expected to hold the next bus for you. On Sunday, we had that happen to us. Our vineyard tour and lunch was late to return to the next bus pickup. We had to pick up our luggage and the tour guide said that the bus was waiting. We grabbed a tuk tuk and met the bus just as it was leaving! It had, apparently, pulled over to a better spot to wait for us… but it was a close call! After seeing the Nazca lines on an included stop, we were dropped off at Mom’s cafe in Nazca, about a mile from our hotel. The bus can’t go to every hotel, so we were on our own to get to ours. The guide told us to get a taxi, which seemed easy enough, until we realized Uber didn’t work in Nazca. There were no taxi stands, just a stream of little beat up cars driving by and honking. Sonja jumped into action and went up to the first one that honked near us. The driver didn’t recognize our hotel and the car was literally falling apart! A few others honked and we finally found one that recognized our hotel. He threw Sonja’s suitcase on the roof rack (not tied down) and I poured into the min back seat with my backpacks while she sat in the front. We paid in cash, the agreed price before starting. I started noticing many of these Fino beat up cars, very distinctive to the town. After checking into our hotel, we walked back into town (which was easy without luggage) and had a wonderful dinner of sea bass at a restaurant with outdoor seating. On the walk back to the hotel, it became a game to spot the Fino taxis– which ones were the most beat up with extra points for finding a previously unseen color. Many of them, fittingly, were yellow!

I feel very fortunate to be able to see so many different facets of Peru. I began my time volunteering and was able to help make a real, tangible impact in the lives of underprivileged locals around me. In doing so, I met so many warm hearts and kind souls, which, in turn, shifted my perspective on health, prosperity and happiness. Now, I’m traveling through Peru as a tourist, taking advantage of all of the fun and exciting explorations Peru has to offer. Seeing the country through two very different lenses has been really eye opening, instilling a real appreciation for all of the things I’ve been able to accomplish. Though my intent was to go to Peru to teach, I believe I’m the one who has learned the most. Until next time, dear friends: stay safe, stay healthy, and always remember to make space for what brings you joy.

That is what learning is.
You suddenly understand something you have understood all your life,
but in a new way.
-Doris Lessing