RTW ’24: Multifaceted

This week was a mix of emotions, and I was able to see Sri Lanka through multiple lenses. I finished out my time volunteering at the Mother Theresa House, spending my time cleaning and teaching. It was a real blessing to be able to spend so much time in the classroom with the kids! They were so eager to learn and spend time, which made my job with them much easier. After my volunteer time was finished, I packed up my belongings, and set out on a days-long hike with a very knowledgeable guide. It was a stark contrast from my time spent at the Mother Theresa House, and my soul felt replenished just by being one with nature. Being back on a rigorous hike and touring a country on foot was exactly what my soul needed! I was thankful to be able to experience the climate, wilderness, and diversity of Sri Lanka in such a unique– and fulfilling– way.

My mornings at the Mother Theresa House looked pretty similar every day, starting with cleaning the infant mattresses. One morning, I noticed a severely disabled girl who was sitting in her crib while the others were getting bathed. She had mucus running out of her nostrils and both of her eyes were damaged. I don’t know what caused it, but it laid heavy on my heart to see her in such a state. I did notice that her clothes were changed each day, so I knew she was being bathed and cared for, but her mattress smelled of urine. I considered asking if I could be of any assistance to her, but eventually decided to follow the tasks that I’d been assigned to. I assumed that once all of the able bodied girls were done bathing and getting dressed that a sister would attend to the lone girl in her crib. After cleaning the mattresses, I went back to laundry duty. The fun, loving, playful girls from my first day were ready to help! Bucket by bucket, we carried wet clothes up the stairs to the roof and hung them, playing peek a boo and tag in-between hanging linens. At one point, I had to go into the women’s ward to gather their rubber sheets for cleaning. Immediately upon entering the ward, I was struck by a strong odor of urine. I saw one of the sisters washing everything by hand, but I suppose they can only do but so much. All of the sisters are always busy with tasks, never idly standing around. They are calm, consistent and even-tempered, no matter what is happening around them. Some of the women residents are loud, moving about chaotically… but the sisters remain an ever calming influence around them. It reminded me of the leper story in the Bible: when you care for someone that no one appears to want, you are caring for Jesus. I was in awe, watching the sisters care for these women as if they were caring for Jesus himself, fulfilling one of the many facets of their devotion to Him. It was inspiring, to say the least.

When I was back on the roof, I witnessed an altercation between a strong young girl with Down syndrome, who appeared to be about 8 or 9, and another girl who was hanging wet clothes. I heard a slap through the billowing linens, and without a sister in sight, I went over to console a girl (the one who was hanging wet clothes) who was crying. The girl with Down syndrome came over to me and started pulling my hands away from the crying girl. I did my best to be firm, but gentle, with her, but she found my bracelets and pulled on them. My Nepal bracelet snapped, and the beads scattered across the roof. I was able to gather all of the beads, and the little girl eventually gave me the beads that were in her hand, then ran away. The little girl who was crying came over and held my hand for the rest of the morning. We worked on carrying buckets up together, and even though she had some physical challenges in her legs and hands, she was determined to carry her own bucket up the stairs. Her determination amazed me!

In the evening, I went to a psychic with some of the volunteer girls. Psychics are very important, and highly valued, in Sri Lankan culture. All of us were given different insights and answers. Dhammike interpreted our readings for us since the psychic didn’t speak any English. She told me that I had many problems in my life, but all of them were solved and the rest of my life would be good. She mentioned January of this past year as when things were resolved. I reflected on her reading and thought that, perhaps, in general, it was the start of my first full year of retirement. It was an interesting experience overall, and it was a wonderful way to bond with the other volunteers in the house

Friday was my last day at the volunteer house. Leaving felt bittersweet. The women and girls there left a very lasting impression on me. I was relieved to be finishing because it was physically and emotionally draining, but I was sad because I grew very attached to the three girls who helped me with the laundry every day. We communicated without speaking the same language, connecting through play and energy. The bond we formed in a rather short period of time deeply impacted my heart. I felt bad that just as they got used to seeing me each morning, I wouldn’t be there the following week. I did learn that another volunteer was lined up to go, so it was a comfort that someone would be there to support them. I hoped that the new volunteer would take the time to speak their language of play, too.

The weekend started with a relaxing day at a hotel pool with the other volunteer girls from the house. We enjoyed a nice infinity pool with lounge chairs and towels. They had a western style restaurant, which was an added treat after having local rice and curry for just about every meal all week. Jess and Amanda, volunteers from Sydney, were leaving. They gave me recommendations on places to go in New Zealand for whenever my time there comes. One of the things I love about meeting people along the way is getting these recommendations and keeping my plans open. I never know who I’ll come across that might impact my plans and the direction of my journey, and that is a beautiful thing! Jess, a journalist student at university (or uni, as they call it), interviewed me about my volunteer experience for an article she will be publishing at her university. It was so refreshing to spend time with such amazing college women while they give back as they are just getting started with their lives. It’s a bright spot of hope for our future! As she interviewed me, I was able to further reflect on my overall experience at the volunteer house. The experience gave me an authentic immersion into Sri Lankan culture. The time I spent in the volunteer house, which was centered in a neighborhood, made me feel like I wasn’t a tourist at all, but just another person in the grand patchwork of the place my feet were planted.

On Sunday, I said goodbye to my volunteer friends and hosts at the house. One of the volunteers, Holly, who had been at the turtle conservation for two weeks, was American. She is a math teacher from Illinois, taking a year-long sabbatical to volunteer with IVHQ in several places, including Peru. To my surprise, it was nice to hear another American accent. I didn’t realize just how much I missed it until we started chatting– it had been a long time since I’d crossed paths with an American traveler. Another volunteer, Louise from Australia, arrived the night prior. I learned that she was scheduled to do the same volunteer work that I was doing at the Mother Theresa House. I was so glad that someone was going to take my place, and that I had the opportunity to meet her. We chatted a bit before I left and I reassured her that she was in good hands and would have a rewarding experience. After many good conversations, I started to prepare for my next phase in Sri Lanka: a days-long hike. Part of my packing process includes ensuring I have snacks on hand so that no matter what, I can fuel my body. While I was gathering my snacks, I noticed something strange in the trail mix that I brought from Tanzania– some extra protein! I’m not entirely sure when the lizard got into the baggie… but one thing is for sure: I didn’t bring it with me for the hike! The Green Lion (the local volunteer group where I stayed), partners with the village for the driving needs of its volunteers, which I really like. A tuk tuk driver, who is one of the village dads, drove me to my next hotel. Because I connected with the village kids and their parents, I was more than happy to pay them for my rides. As a result, after just one week, I felt very comfortable, connected, safe, and best of all, happy! IVHQ and the Green Lion team truly made my time there such a great experience. I even started to look up where I can volunteer with them in South America! Once I completed my shopping for the hike and settled in to my hotel, I took an evening hike with a hotel guide and other guests to see the sunset. The view was amazing!

Monday marked the beginning of my hike on the Pekoe Trail! The Pekoe Trail is the brainchild of adventurer Miguel Cunat, originally from Spain, who spent many years hiking in the central highlands of Sri Lanka. He even walked the Camino! I felt like things were coming full circle! Ayesh, my guide, worked with Miguel to design and clear the trail, and he was the first Sri Lankan to complete all 22 stages in February of this year. I felt so lucky to have him as my guide! We started bright and early, 6:45 a.m., which proved to be wise because by 9 a.m., it was blazing hot. Sweat completely soaked through my shirt! It was well worth it, though. The trail was amazing! It was everything I had hoped for. Ayesh is a naturalist and is a licensed guide. He pointed out birds and trees, shared stories about Sri Lanka culture, and chatted with the few locals that we met along the way. Everyone was so friendly, stopping to say good morning with a genuine smile and open heart. I made sure to ask before I took photos, but everyone was very keen to have their pictures taken! We saw tea pluckers (Tamil women, originally from India; Hindu) and people walking along the road between villages. I learned that the Tamil people were brought to Sri Lanka by the British, originally as slaves used to work in the tea fields (which are still hand-picked today!). When Sri Lanka surrendered to the British, part of the agreement was that no Sri Lankan would be used as a slave on the tea plantations, so the British brought Tamils to their country. The Islam people moved to Sri Lanka as tradespeople in the 1960’s, and today, the Tamils still pick tea for minimum wage. The trail uses as much already existing infrastructure as possible, which was nice to see. We walked on slab road (used previously by bull carts to bring tea down the mountains), gravel roads, and dirt paths. The paved paths are also used by tuk tuk’s, but we only saw a few as we got closer to town. The trail hadn’t officially opened yet, so some stages weren’t fully signed and were very overgrown. I had no idea it wasn’t opened yet because the website gave me the impression that it was open. I was thankful that I went with a guide who picked stages that were finished, complete with beautiful scenery and a lot of cultural diversity. On the first day, we passed the place where Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom was filmed! The movie has some dark plot lines that don’t paint India in a good light, but Ayesh said that the villagers were extras in the movie and part of the movie set remains in the area! He said that, eventually, the trail team hopes to clear a path to it so hikers can see what remains. For now, the big mountains in the background were my only clear picture. Ayesh informed me that once the trail is officially launched, there will be a pass system for bikers to pay for each stage. The money will go to trail maintenance, which is done by plantations and local communities. I love the sustainability aspect! Ayesh told me that, eventually, they plan to have badges for each stage and a certificate of completion, similar to the Camino. It’s cool to be an early hiker on this trail before all of the infrastructure is solidified! He assured me that he’d let me know once badges are available, and he’d help me get them retroactively. The trail team is even giving back to the community– they built a village school, which means children don’t have to walk as far each day to get to their classroom. I knew I’d like the trail, but that was just one more reason to fall in love with Pekoe!

In Sri Lanka, there is a legal holiday once a month for the full moon, Poya Day, where everyone enjoys the day off, even school children. It’s based in Buddhism, marking the belief that the Buddha arrived in Sri Lanka on the full moon, and everyone participates! Tuesday marked this special holiday. I heard chanting along the trail from Buddhist, Hindu and Islam places of worship throughout the day. Ayesh told me which types we were hearing, and I thanked him for working (being my guide) on a holiday. He replied, with a smile, “I work in tourism, so it’s expected!”. There’s a special ceremony, sila, which comprises three stages along the Eightfold Path– right speech, right action, and right livelihood. Children dress in white and go to the temple for the ceremony. School children even wear white uniforms! The white represents purity, and because it gets dirty easily, the children are encouraged to focus on school work and not play around while walking to and from school. It’s a smart idea! Every day on the trail, I saw children walking to and from school, except, of course, on the holiday.

We hiked through a lot of forest, and because of this, I was very worried about getting leeches stuck to me. I tucked my socks into my pants and sprayed my pants and socks with deet spray, which I brought from home. I read that they don’t like mosquito repellent, so I figured that was a safe precaution. Ayesh called the leeches zombies, which made sense, because I saw a few of them on the ground wandering about aimlessly. Ayesh pointed out a variety of flowers, trees, and plants along the way. I noticed that he different from many guides that I’ve previously had on my travels. Other guides typically snap off branches to demonstrate a smell, or give a flower to a tourist. Ayesh, however, was very careful not to break branches or remove flowers. Instead, he would look for a fallen piece, or gently point out the plant. He was, indeed, a naturalist who cared greatly for the environment, and took extra care to ensure it thrived. Along the way, we saw a few groups of people fathered to enjoy the day off from work. One group of young guys were gathered around a car, playing music and dancing. I didn’t think much of it, but Ayesh made a comment that the birds won’t sing for awhile because of it– the unnatural sounds near the forest really bothers them. I hadn’t even considered that before!

Amongst all of the wildlife surrounding us, a few favorites popped out. The Jasmine flower emits a strong fragrance along the trail. It’s almost magical to walk on the paths and get whiff of this tiny, white flower before even seeing it! There’s also a Trumpet Flower Tree, which blossoms at night and closes during the heat of the day. There’s an endemic plant, Heen Bovitiya, found only in Sri Lanka. It’s a beautiful, bright purple ornamental flower, named as the Southern Province Flower. Bovitiya itself is found in other parts of the world as well, but the Heen Bovitiya, a plant of medicinal value, is found only in Sri Lanka. It’s used by the local Ayurvedic people as the most effective treatment for jaundice. Traditional healers say that the extracts of the leaves of the plant have health benefits for the liver. Finally, the pepper trees, long-lived and quick-growing, can reach some 50 feet in height. The plant has a wide canopy, with young branches typically weeping. The long compound leaves have storage cells that contain a volatile oil and emit a peppery fragrance when broken. Interesting sidebar, since we’re on the topic of pepper: there are no salt and pepper shakers on the table, here! I’m assuming it’s because the spice is already in the prepared meals. All dishes have a lot of spice for my palate, even when I ask for no spice. I’m getting used to numb lips with every meal (which is why I typically avoid spices), but it’s been an adjustment!

Overall, the week was fulfilling in various ways. When I wrapped up my time at the volunteer house, my heart was full knowing that I had, indeed, made a small difference in the lives of some of the residents of the house. I felt a sense of personal accomplishment through the works I had done there, and I felt very connected with the village in which I stayed. Once I transitioned from the house to nature, I was fulfilled in different ways. Being in nature has always been where I felt the most comfortable, so my soul was certainly thriving. It was wonderful to build a connect with my guide, Ayesh, and our shared interest in nature. It felt really wonderful to gain more and more knowledge on the world around me, and spending hours on end with one person helped to build a really wonderful relationship. My feet were excited to walk the earth in such a productive way, and though my body felt the ramifications of walking many miles each day, I felt invigorated in ways that I can only accomplish when being in nature for extended periods of time. Until next time, dear friends: stay safe, stay healthy, and always remember to make space for what brings you joy.

Being alone in nature
is another way to feel the joy of beauty–
and oneness with a greater whole.
-Jude Bijou