RTW ’24: Cruisin Along

It’s been an incredibly busy and fulfilling few weeks on my journey. On Monday, I hit another huge milestone on my RTW adventure: 300 days of travel! It felt surreal to see such a large number of days on my travel log– it seems like just yesterday that I stepped foot on the Camino de Santiago… and now, I’m in an entirely different part of the world! I took some time to reflect on my travels so far, plan for what is yet to come, and revel in the fact that my body has taken me so far. I am so incredibly thankful that my dream has come to fruition, and I am truly blessed to have all of the support from my family, friends, and readers. Thank you for being such a special part of my journey!

On Thursday afternoon, I departed New Zealand on a four hour flight… and then arrived in Tahiti on Wednesday night! It was so strange to get an entire day back, thanks to the time change. I couldn’t help but think about just how relative time really is dependent on where you are. The International Date Line is a human construct our ancestors made up as people started traveling the world. The date line is not a straight, vertical line at 180 degrees… but rather, an arbitrary boundary that political entities have changed depending on who was ruling the land. In Tahiti, the day changed to the western hemisphere in 1846 when the French won the Franco-Tahitian War. History is so interesting to me, and understanding how the world works wherever I am at any given time helps me find my footing in each place. This phenomena, certainly, is no different! By the time I got picked up and settled into my studio, it was midnight, so I got some rest so I could relive my Thursday all over again!

When I woke up on my new Thursday, I went to the Papeete tourism office. I decided to try my French, which I’d been practicing on Duolingo, and started my conversation with the woman at the desk. “Bonjour! Parles vu Anglais?” I asked. She replied, “Yes, I have to. I work in tourism!” It was a cooler response than I had hoped for, but nonetheless, she provided me with a map and mentioned that the Olympic flame was arriving, so the traffic would be very bad, especially around the culture center. I walked toward the area where the torch would be to see what was going on. Everything was blocked off, similar to a music festival, and there were a lot of school groups crowding the venue, which I thought was really cool. There wasn’t any space for tourists, so I decided to grab some lunch. While eating, I met a nice American couple from Memphis who were in Tahiti celebrating their 10 year wedding anniversary. We hung out for a bit and had lunch together, and I was quite thankful for the company. Afterwards, without any way of getting closer to the torch location, I decided to head back to my studio. One block from my apartment, I noticed some road barricades and police officers. I decided to give my French another whirl, “Bonjour, est ce que la flamme passe par ici?” I received a much more welcome response this time, in English. They told me that the flame was due to pass at that location at 5! I was so excited! I went back at 4:30 to find a band set up and a lot of spectators– the mood was very festive! As the men with the torches came by, I got goosebumps. It was truly a once-in-a-lifetime moment, and an amazing way to spend my first day in Tahiti!

The studio I was staying in had a bicycle in the basement that I was granted access to, for which I was very grateful. I was so happy to get some bike miles in! Each new bike that I ride takes some time to get used to. That bike was more of a beach bike– very fitting for Tahiti– with pedal brakes and no gears. It was super simple, but it had been ages since I Rode a bike without lever brakes, which made stopping quickly in city traffic a big of a struggle. Once I got out of the city, it was a very pleasant ride with an ocean breeze on relatively flat roads throughout the island. While I was riding along, I happened upon an American writer’s home museum, James Herman Hall, which was really cool. Recently, I’ve been emailing with my cousin Time (who, if you’ve followed my blog from the early days, hosted me at his home in NI), discussing our various family members who write– some published, some not. It was very serendipitous to stumble upon a writer’s home in Tahiti, complete with his typewriter and original manuscripts. Hall had a very distinguished life in addition to his books. He co-wrote The Mutiny On The Bounty, which became a movie a few times, and many more books about the South Seas. He even visited Martha’s Vineyard after serving in three armies in WWI. Vivian, the museum curator, and I had a lovely chat. I wandered around the home and she graciously provided me with a cool citron drink when she saw how overheated I was from riding in the sun. Vivian was from East Africa (now Uganda) and came to Tahiti in 2002. We swapped stories about Africa, then and now, enjoying the common thread we shared. It was an unexpected treat, and a great destination on my bike!

On Saturday, I boarded a ship to embark on a 12 day cruise. It was an adjustment getting used to being one of 163 passengers versus my sole ship trip a few months ago. Everything takes longer to accomplish with so many people, and everyone moves at their own pace. My heart was so happy to be back out at sea. We were welcomed with a dance show on the pool deck, followed by a safety orientation and dispersal of snorkel gear. It felt good to see the cargo section of the ship as we were leaving the port, seeing the pilot vessel and knowing what the process is like because of my first cargo experience. I was a little disappointed that passengers couldn’t go inside the bridge as we were leaving port– I was nostalgic for my days with Captain on Blue Master II, knowing full well that being an eyewitness so close to the action was a real privilege. I realized that with 160+ passengers, it’s just not possible for everyone to get a front row seat to the port leaving, so a bunch of us hung out around the deck to get a good view of our departure from the port. It was definitely a different experience than my prior sea adventure, but I was thankful for the juxtaposition of the experience, and the fact that I had anything to compare it to at all!

On the ship, I shared a room with three other women. It was really nice to have women to share my experience with, but it was a bit of an adjustment to find a rhythm of meshing our schedules– specifically, showering and using the restroom. Thankfully, we were all laid back with positive attitudes, so it didn’t take long to settle into our routines. On Sunday, I was able to disembark the ship and explore more of Tahiti. I rode a bike– the same style of bike from earlier in the week– around the island with Evelyn, a fellow cruiser. It was so much fun! We were well-matched riding partners, both eager to explore. Her French was much better than mine, but I kept up the best I could. We explored the north end of the island, which had only one road and about 500 inhabitants, and found a Catholic Church on the island and attended mass. The pews were getting filled up as we entered, and joyful music filled the church. There was a live band– three men playing a ukulele, guitar, and keyboard. The choir consisted of everyone in the church, and the sound carried everywhere in the sanctuary. The altar was decorated with orchids, hibiscus, and other beautiful flowers woven together, complete with Jesus and Mary adorned with leis. The chandeliers were made of seashells, and the statues and altar were fashioned from native dark wood, adorned with inlaid seashells. It was obvious that it was a Catholic Church, but it was uniquely Tahitian. It was wonderful to see the local culture imbedded into the sacred pieces. One of the things that I love about attending mass around the world is that the order of things, and the prayers, are universal… but each church has its local heritage embedded in its fibers. It’s such a beautiful testament to how universal God’s love really is. When we stood at the typical times throughout the mass, the whole congregation sang and swayed with the music, lifting their hands in praise. The joy was contagious– I felt it in my bones. If I didn’t recognize the tune, I would say a Hail Mary or the Lord’s Prayer. It was unintentional at first, but once I realized what I was doing, I thought it was the perfect way to participate. After mass, we rode our bikes in the opposite direction. There weren’t any shops, and only a car or two drove by. It was serene and beautiful, and the water was inviting us in for a swim. There was a lot of coral and volcanic rocks at the water’s edge, so we rode until we found a sandy patch. I tested out my snorkel and mask, but didn’t see any fish. Nonetheless, it was really nice to cool off after a long bike ride. We enjoyed the water for a bit, then made our way back to the ship, where the Captain introduced us to all 113 members of the crew by name. All of the officers were men with the exception of one woman, and all of the engineers were men as well. The entire hospitality staff, on the other hand, was women. The captain also mentioned that passengers could visit the bridge when we were at sea, just not when we were coming or leaving port, so I made a mental note to visit the following day.

As promised, I made it to the bridge the following day at 11 am, and as fate would have it, the woman officer was on duty. She was really friendly, and kindly spoke English when she realized it was my native language. I requested the passage plan, letting her know I’d been traveling for 10 months and had previously been on a cargo ship. We had a nice chat as she wrote down all of the port to port nautical miles for me. I asked if it would be at all possible to see the engine room, and she said she would ask the chief engineer. Very exciting prospect! Afterwards, I spent the rest of the day doing things that I liked, chatting with a few other solo American travelers, and exploring the ship. In the evening, we had a Tahitian dance practice class. It was so much fun! I assumed we were preparing for the Polynesian night that was planned during the cruise, and I danced my heart out. After practice, I was sweaty, so I decided I might as well get some time in at the gym before dinner. The gym was similar to the one on Blue Master II, so I was familiar with what I could do. It was good to do some strength intervals and feel that familiar sway when I was trying to hold a plank. I was getting my sea legs back!

On Tuesday, we got off of the ship at another island, Nuka Hiva. We got into cars, 4 people per car, and a driver drove us around the island for the day. It was really exciting, particularly because US sailors had been there in the 19th century and named it Massachusetts Bay. In addition, Herman Melville stayed there for several weeks after abandoning his post in the whaling ship, Achuset. He wrote a book about his time there called Typee, which I was actually reading on my Kindle! The driver brought us to a 600 year old Banyan tree where there was a traditional dance performance. I perched myself on a volcanic rock to get a good view close to the tree. There is some debate, but it’s widely accepted that cannibalism was practiced there before it was colonized. It gave me an eerie feeling to watch the dance and hear the chants and drum beats, knowing I was in the front row, and possibly would be the first to be consumed had this been an actual war dance a long time ago. Our guide told us later that the human sacrifices were decided by a high priest, who would give the chosen person a tonic drink (males, only), putting him into a coma before being sacrificed. It was believed to be an honor, if chosen. It was a polyandry society, meaning women had multiple husbands, for the practical reason that men went to war and could potentially be sacrificed. It was interesting, and eerie, indeed.

Each island that we visit on the cruise has a very different feel, even though they are relatively close in distance to each other. Every island has tiki’s at the harbor depicting different stories unique to the island. The Polynesian culture is so rich and diverse, as is the landscape. Some islands are lush with jungles while others are barren and desolate. The variety is amazing! On Thursday, the ship stopped at quay (harbor). I love watching the cargo get unloaded, and even more, it’s so interesting to see the dock operations. One or two people were at a desk with a laptop, a cash box and a log book. They were in charge of managing finances and checking off items picked up and sent onto the ship. In some ways, it felt like going back in time, seeing how goods have moved around the world for hundreds of years. In another way, it’s just like Amazon, seeing people being so excited to get a wrapped box from a family on another island, or watching a refrigerator and washing machine getting hauled onto the back of a pickup truck. Island life has always relied on ships for staying connected to the world. Our crew members even purchase fresh fruit and fish right from the dock! The sashimi tuna salad that we had for dinner later that night was most certainly that day’s fresh catch.

While on Hiva Oa, I was able to visit two museums. I was eager to see Gauguin, but I’ll admit, my knowledge of his personal life was quite limited until I arrived. His art is beautiful, but felt tainted for me after learning of his exploits of women to such an extent that the museum had a house of pleasure, where he painted and engaged with his subjects. His use of symbolism was a precursor to modern art, which is a notable legacy, but I won’t look at his paintings in the same way again after understanding his lack of consideration for infecting so many women with venereal diseases. The paintings in the museum were not originals– the island couldn’t afford them– so other artists have made “copies”. It’s the only museum with the progression of his work over time, which is the attraction of the museum in addition to it being where he created his iconic pieces. On the other extreme was Jacque Brel, whose grave is also on the island. I had not heard of him beforehand, but Brel was a French entertainer in the mid 20th century. All of the French and European passengers knew of him and his legacy. HIs grave was adorned with many flowers and ornaments. He came to the island to escape his fame and lived his last years there after a terminal diagnosis. He had the only plane on the island, and helped the people of the island in many ways, such as medical flights for the sick and bringing supplies to the island. It was an obvious contrast between the two artists, and a reminder about the legacy each of us leaves behind after we’re gone.

Just as I was getting comfortable with my sea legs, I had to put my hiking legs back to work! On Friday, I undertook a hike with 42 other passengers from the cruise that was listed as a 10/10 difficulty. The passengers who chose not to do the hike had the option to ride a 4×4 up to the summit or stay on the ship as it cruised along the coast to the second town where our hike ended. It was nice that everyone was accommodated, and we all had options suited to our preferences. Naturally, I chose to do the hike, accompanied by some nice friends that I made on the cruise. The first half of the hike was all uphill to the summit with an elevation gain of 2,180 feet. The very start of the hike had the steepest incline of 25 degrees, and as the sun rose higher the heat was strong. It was a real climb the whole way! All of us did well and made it to the summit for a sandwich and pastry lunch. I chatted with my cruise friends the whole way up and down, when our breath allowed. It had a real Camino feeling to the day, sharing chats and stories in-between steep inclines. The path was a concrete or dirt road, the same road the 4×4’s took. I really enjoyed being close to the scenery with all its fragrances from wild flowers and jungle plants, hearing bird songs, and feeling the occasional breeze as we rounded a mountain edge. At every turn, there was another majestic mountain peak. The peaks were spikey and jagged with palm trees and hardwoods, living harmoniously together. We were able to experience an island up close at a walking pace, which I really loved, while being one with nature. The combination of being at sea on the Pacific Ocean and being immersed in the mountains filled my soul and brought me so much joy! It was a tough hike, but worth every single step and breath.

The next morning, I was able to watch the anchorage in the channel. Many passengers got up early– 6 am– to observe from the top deck. The ship did a 180 degree turnaround in the narrow channel. The winds were calm, and there was still only what looked like inches to spare between the ship and the jagged shoreline as we turned. As that was happening, the seafarers positioned themselves on the barges with anchor lines in order to attach the lines to white pillars on the shore rocks. There was no margin for error in any of these operations! All of us were so amazed and impressed by this spectacular maneuver that we cheered as the barges returned to the ship! Yet again, the crew had a very difficult job to do in itself, let alone with 100 spectators! After watching the spectacle, I ate breakfast on the ship and then took a barge to quay at Vaipaee to go on a 4×4 tour of the island with Linda, Elizabeth and Mary. We got to visit an arboretum with a beautiful botanical garden, including a tree museum, sea museum, and tattoo origin pictures. Afterwards, we drove along the coast and saw breathtaking vista after breathtaking vista. It was an amazing day on the island! Once we got back on the ship, we enjoyed some dinner and then Elizabeth and I watched stars from the bridge deck. It was such a special and awe inspiring experience, soaking up as much of the southern hemisphere skies as I could. We were on a long passage to the next island group, so the skies were dark. A few clouds rolled by, but passed quick enough to keep the stars in view. I could find the southern cross with ease, thanks to my stargazing in NZ. Elizabeth has sailed a lot and shared her knowledge of navigational star finding. We both used the star app, Stellarium, in our phones to get a reading, and then just watched the sky passing by as the stars danced and the ship steadily moved us northwards. We even saw a shooting star!

On the final few days of my cruise, I settled into sea life and enjoyed the planned activities that the cruise offered. I was able to rent a bike and ride around a new town, swim at a public beach, snorkel at shark and stingray habitats, partake in a yoga class and even participate in a Tahiti dance performance! Elizabeth and I continued to stargaze frequently in the evenings, getting to know the officers that were on shift on the bridge. Overall, the cruise was a really wonderful experience, and a great way to see as much of the area as possible in such a short time. On Wednesday morning, I disembarked the Aranui ship. One of the guides was helping all of the passengers get Taxis, and I was directed to a woman driver. The guide told her my destination in French while I put my bags in the trunk. She said “get in”, in English. I asked her what the price of the trip would cost, and she just echoed “get in”. I reiterated that I wouldn’t get in until I knew the price because we were told the day before that the price should be no more than 2000 francs to get downtown. She didn’t have a taxi meter in her vehicle, and the whole situation just felt off. She continued, “you just got off the Aranui, did you pay 1 dollar for that?” to which I replied “I’ll take another taxi.” I went over to find the guide again and retold the conversation I just had with the driver. The guide returned with me and the driver snapped “I don’t want cheap people! Are you from San Francisco? Where homeless people are!?” I was taken aback, shocked at how bizarre the whole situation was. I grabbed my bags, and the guide found me a different taxi, with a meter. As I got in the new taxi, my guide asked me if I was happy and okay. I said yes, and she told me that she would take care of me up to the end. It was very sweet, and she seemed genuinely concerned that I didn’t leave with a bad last impression. The new driver was happy to confirm the price– 1500– before I got in. This encounter made it quite obvious that I was back in a big city, and the idealic Marquess islands were far away already. I had a nice chat with the pleasant driver, tipping him when I left.

It had been only 12 days earlier that I had embarked on the Aramui from the same bustling city I returned to, but I felt so different getting off. I had boarded solo, and really felt like a fish out of water. I was not accustomed to being with so many tourists, mostly my age or older. It took a day or so, but I quickly adjusted to the cruising lifestyle. It was sad to say goodbye to my new friends, and be solely responsible for all of my transportation and travel logistics. Earlier in the day, all of the passengers finished one last French cuisine breakfast. There were many hugs, air kisses, and “stay loose” waves. Elizabeth, Mary and I talked of future plans, which I have a good feeling will come to pass. My new Irish travel-loving pals! I also reflected on how transitions are always an adjustment. You would think that I would be used to it by now as I enter month 11 of my journey. But, instead, I feel even more aware of transitions. It doesn’t make them any easier, though. Having no set plans or goals is always a good idea for transition days, giving me time to reflect, journal, and allow my body, mind and heart to shift from one type of experience to another. As I moved from sea life back to solid ground, I spent time in thanksgiving of a really wonderful cruise experience, complete with amazing new friends

On Thursday, I wanted to explore Tahiti island, so I rented a car to cruise around, find some scenic spots, and snap some pictures. In the late afternoon, I took a boat ride to the Teahupoo wave. The boat itself was a galvanized steel fishing boat with a lookout and dual oversized outboard engines. The skipper and two other passengers spoke French, and a small bit of English. It was okay for me– I enjoyed being on the water and soaking in the late afternoon scenery. Just as we left the shore, a full rainbow appeared over the big waves we were headed to! There were 5 or 6 other boats in the same area, and the skipper kept the boat’s stern facing the wave crests. I asked him if being positioned this way gave him a quick getaway if needed, and he said yes. There were about a dozen surfers in the water, and we were close enough to feel just how powerful the ocean current and waves were. The skipper kept the engines on and maneuvered between reverse and forward to keep us near he action, yet far enough away from the swimmers and overth boats to remain safe. It wasn’t an easy task given the swells, winds, and shear energy of the ocean, but he did a phenomenal job. It was such a thrill to watch the wave form and see the surfers either decide to go for it or just let it pass. Some of the boats were like us– tourist spectators– and other boats were surfer taxis. The surfer taxis were cool to watch! A surfer would jump into the water, and other surfers on board would whistle when a large swell was forming. THe skipper told me that the winds were southwest when we were out on the water, creating smaller waves perfect for training. After a woman rode a wave, he mentioned she was five time world champion Carrise Moore from Hawaii. Some of the Olympic athletes were already there, and some of the surfers in the water were amateurs getting the chance to surf with them! It was so cool! I didn’t mind that these weren’t the iconic massive waves, the experience in its entirety was amazing. The wind was strong, but I ventured to the lookout and felt just how strong the ocean really was– just holding on to my phone and taking photos was challenging enough! From my vantage point, I could see the surfers swimming and riding the waves. I have so much respect and admiration for their abilities, seeing just how much at home they were in the ocean. I don’t think I could ever feel that comfortable in such treacherous conditions!

There’s an abundance in the South Pacific. It feels as if the Creator sat down and let out a big sigh, sending energy (Mana) everywhere. The trees are heavy with abundant fragment flowers and colorful fruit. The mid afternoon air is heavy with water, and at the same time, the sun’s heat is constant so rainbows are frequent. The mountain peaks are lush greens of many shades. The colors everywhere are vibrant– nothing is subdued. The ocean sends huge waves crashing without abandon, daring spectators to test her waters. The people carry extra weight, according to stories we’ve hear, as a result from traveling long distances in canoes with little food. There’s an abundance of hospitality, “Ia ora na” (welcome) is said to everyone. It feels like all the abundance in nature has given a relaxed feeling to the culture. The drum beats are strong and carry long distances. Women and men dance with an abundance of emotions, conveying rich ancient stories. I feel that abundance has drawn explorers to find these islands, and that’s why many people have stayed, abandoning their previous plans. And like the Creator, decided to sit down at the water’s edge and let out a big sigh, letting go of everything that had gotten them to that moment. Mana, the mythical Polynesian force that animates every element.

Monday, July 1st, was not only the beginning of a new month, but it also marked 300 days of traveling on RTW! It really landed on me that I’ve been on the road for a REALLY long time. I’ve been in the planning stages for the final leg of RTW in South America, so naturally, I’d been reflecting on how I feel about how the last 10 months have gone. French Polynesia wasn’t even on my country list when I started, yet there I was, amongst palm trees, feeling a warm Pacific Ocean breeze on an island shaped like a heart. It’s beyond what I imagined! It’s a strange feeling, really– feeling so good about the trip as a whole, and so excited for what’s still to come on RTW, but also ready to finish and get back to my “normal” life. Some people start long term travel and never return home. The internet has hundreds, if not thousands, of those traveler chronicles. I know because I follow a lot of them. But what’s different for me is that I left a really full life to do this trip. It was sad to say goodbye to my family, friends and communities when I left last September… AND I was so excited to start an adventure that took years to plan. It was the best of both scenarios: I wasn’t running from anything in life, as some travelers do. Rather, I was running towards a new adventure, just a chapter in this huge book of my life. Overall, I feel like it’s been a successful trip so far. I had to make some adjustments, and it certainly always didn’t go flawlessly, but nothing in life ever does. I can say that through it all, I kept to my core values. Further, I have my mental, physical, and spiritual health, a true gift. I kept myself safe, and as I used to say to my son, have no negative lasting consequences from the times that things did go sideways. Thankfully, I stayed in touch with family and friends through this blog, emails, what’s app calls, and a few in person meetups. I’ve added new friends along the way, too, one of the many blessings of slow long term travel. As I reflect now, I’m excited to return to the USA for the holidays after one last big adventure in South America. I’ve missed the rhythm of everyday life back home, and I’m really looking forward to (in no particular order) in person visits, my regular in person yoga class, going to the gym, consistent and healthy food choices, my home, my neighbors, and having a pet. Though I’m not quite through with my RTW journey yet, the end is in sight. I continue to thank my body daily for carrying me through this journey, and my heart remains open for what is yet to come. Until next time, dear friends: stay safe, stay healthy, and always remember to make space for what brings you joy.

Your goals are the road maps that guide you
And show you what is possible for your life.
-Les Brown