RTW ’24: Coming Full Circle

I spent the last days of my RTW journey in Cordoba and Buenos Aires, Argentina touching on almost all aspects of my 14 month adventure. I made a few new friends, reconnected with friends I met along the way and friends back home, discovered a few new tourist spots, continued some self-care, and connected with nature. Slow travel transportation modes were also a focus; I traveled by bus, ferry, bike, and even added one new travel method – horseback riding! All and all it was a wonderful wrap up of my trip around the world! 

Before leaving Cordoba I wanted to experience gaucho culture and booked a day at a ranch. After some challenges buying my bus ticket the day before, I was rewarded with a smooth and easy process to catch my bus to El Manzano. I practiced my Spanish to ask the driver to let me off at the ranch entrance before the bus station. If the start of the day was any indication, it was going to be a wonderful adventure. Although I really enjoyed city life the prior 2 weeks, my heart was glad to leave the hustle bustle behind me and watch the green scenery unfold on the bus ride to El Manzano. Salvador, the ranch owner,  wasn’t waiting for me at the bus stop so I  started walking down the dirt road. After a few minutes, a white pickup truck stopped and Salvador asked, “Sharon?” “Si”, I said and got in. It was a quick ride to the ranch. Salvador seemed like a real gaucho; wearing a beret, smoking a cigarette, adorned with faded and worn clothes. We made some small talk, his English was decent. As we approached the ranch I asked if there were any other visitors today. He said, “No! You’re our queen for the day!” There were some volunteers at the ranch who helped Salvador maintain the horses and farm animals (which he added during COVID when tourism stopped and the farm helped him survive). We had coffee and I was introduced to the volunteers: four women university students (1 from Spain and 3 from France) who were in Argentina on a semester abroad. They study in Mendoza and were taking a few weeks to volunteer there to get the gaucho experience. There was also a young couple from France who were traveling around South America for 5 months. Audrey and Dory showed me the farm animals, including a lamb who was only a few days old. Dory was the first one to find the baby one morning and therefore had the honor to have it named after her. They had pigs, cows (2 that stayed on the farm for milking and 18 more that were kept on the ranch), sheep, and chickens. It was a modest but fully sustainable farm. The volunteers learned how to milk cows, make cheese, bread, dulce de crema (caramel sauce that is an icon here), and most importantly, learned how to make Asado (BBQ).The ranch is off the grid and uses solar panels with a backup generator. Hot water is heated with gathered wood and propane tanks are used for cooking on the stove. After the farm tour we went for a morning horseback ride while the BBQ was still cooking. Andra (the French couple’s husband) was left behind to tend the fire on the BBQ. 

I was nervous and excited about going horseback riding. I rode horses on and off when I was a teenager in Pennsylvania. I had a friend, Dawn, who had horses and I would go riding with her. But that was 50 years ago! The last time I rode a horse was in Nepal 2 years ago, when I had COVID, so that was still fresh in my mind. I didn’t want that recent experience to hold me back, especially being in Argentina where ranches are such a big part of the culture. My concerns were quickly put to rest when I got to the ranch and met the horses. The horse I rode was a gentle, well trained mare named Chicoana. She had beautiful markings and fawn colorings. The horses were all well cared for, which was evident by their shiny and well maintained coats. The tack, horse riding gear, had seen many rides, but was also well maintained. They used western saddles, and even had a ramp built to make it easier to mount. After the initial nervousness of getting on my horse, I felt great. She was so tame and gentle. Salvador instructed me how to hold the reins with one hand, pull in the direction to turn, and pull back to stop. It was all coming back to me, thankfully. Salvador took the lead as we made our way back down the dirt road leading out of the ranch and onto a trail. The black and white ranch dogs, Corredor (border collie) and Señor (chihuahua), stayed close to Sal, all the while running back and forth to keep us together. It was such an iconic scene and I felt so grateful I went for the experience! We rode through pastures with cows and up and down hills as the ranch covered 500 hectares. It was so peaceful, listening to the hooves on the ground, the birds nearby, and the wind as we entered open pastures. Sal had explained that gaucho’s use one hand on the reins and the other hand for a lasso. I noticed he had replaced his lasso for a phone and was at ease riding and scrolling! After a while I felt comfortable enough to fetch my phone out of my purse and took a few snaps just to capture the moments. Mostly though, I stayed in the present and really enjoyed the feeling of traveling on the ground being carried by Chicoana. It was like hiking without as much effort on my part. A real treat for me! I hadn’t been paying attention which direction we had gone in, but after about an hour we returned to the ranch, just in time for lunch.

As the food was being prepared, Audrey asked if I wanted to try my hand at lasso with a plastic chair they had been using for practice. She showed me the technique and I tried it– much harder than it looked! I almost got the chair, and realized just how much harder it would be if the target was a moving animal! We were all hungry and enjoyed our Asado (word for BBQ) which was roasted pork, salad, and bread with Malbec wine. A wonderful authentic meal made with ingredients from the ranch and farm. I really did feel like a queen when I tried helping to clear the table and was told to relax. After lunch Sal said it was too hot to ride in the afternoon heat and suggested using the hammocks to take a nap instead and ride later in the afternoon. The full experience, including an afternoon siesta? Sure! After a nice nap I could hear voices and figured it was time to ride again. Our afternoon ride went in a different direction on more rugged trails. Sal had brought a large machete and used it to clear branches as we rode through some overgrown forest trails. Whenever we stopped on the trail, Chicoana would find grasses to eat. I was getting attached to her and liked how she seemed to be enjoying the day as well. She was so well behaved, even when I had to stop her from taking me into the bramble where I’m sure the sweetest grasses were! We rode for over 2 hours and just as we were returning it started to drizzle. That was our cue that it was time to end the day and say goodbye. After Sal spent some time talking with a neighbor who was visiting, he drove me to the bus station. By that time it was pouring rain. He gave me a hug and dropped me as close as he could to the station area. I returned to Cordoba with a full heart and better appreciation for gaucho culture.

After a few last days in Cordoba it was time to go to my final destination: Buenos Aires. I felt a little nostalgic to leave Cordoba as I said goodbye to my Airbnb host, Camila (photo). My day was much like many travel days in South America, 12 hours on a bus watching the scenery go by.  When I got to the Buenos Aires bus station it was dark and raining. 

My host in BA was Angeles, a new friend who is the aunt of a J&J work colleague, Jim Feeney. Jim and I worked together at DePuy Spine. It was so gracious of Jim to connect me with his aunt. I was going to take an Uber to Angele’s apartment, but she texted me to tell me that she could pick me up. Instead of meeting a stranger whose house I was going to stay at, it felt like meeting a friend I hadn’t seen in a while. Once I loaded my bags into her Toyota pickup and got into the front seat, she gave me a quick hug. We chatted as she drove out of downtown and to Palmero, where she lives. Angeles showed me around her apartment, which had 3 floors! My bedroom suite was on its own floor, the main floor had a living room, dining room, kitchen and balcony, and lastly another floor with 3 bedrooms. It was such a treat to have my own space while staying with someone. Angeles’ home was warmly decorated and had  family pictures and Argentina memorabilia. She welcomed me with open arms, giving me my own set of keys and instructions on how to use all the appliances. I slept easily after dropping my bags. The next morning, Angeles made me breakfast and we chatted about both of our plans for the next week. She splits her time between her apartment, her family farm about an hour outside of the city, and her son’s home.

On Sunday I met up with a friend for dinner.  You may remember how Raj and I met during my Africa Safari (with Samia). We had a lot in common, both recently retired and traveling around the world. Raj is from Cambria, Australia and retired from a government tax career. He’s taking several trips to complete his around the world journey, returning home in between continents. Sometimes his wife ,Usha, joins him and other times, when he’s roughing it, like camping in Africa, he goes solo. His South America trip lined up with mine and we were both going to be in Buenos Aires at the same time, which made it possible to meet for dinner. Raj joked and said there would be no more camping trips for him, so his wife agreed to join him in South America. We met at their hotel and walked to an Argentinian steak house. We enjoyed a delicious meal of steak, salad, bread, and Malbec wine.  I love to have connections all around the world, whether it’s new friends from traveling, connections through J&J, or chance encounters. All of those have happened during my RTW adventure and I’m grateful for each and every one. The time with Raj and Usha was a perfect reminder of how grateful I am for all these connections.

On Tuesday I went on a walking tour called “Buenos Aires for the Curious”. Nick, the tour guide, met 7 of us at a cafe and I realized right away it would be very informative and not the typical walking tour. Nick was from BA, currently working at the national museum. He used to be a university professor. Buenos Aires felt very different from the other Argentinian cities I’ve visited. I thought it was because it was the country’s capital and the largest city I visited so far. BA has 3 million in the city and over 15 million in the metro area. It’s also called the Paris of South America, and it did feel very European with cafes, wide promenades, bridges, and parks.  As Nick explained the city’s history another reason emerged. The city was a Spanish port outpost set up to guard Spain against Portuguese territory across the Rio de Plata (what is now Uruguay). Until air travel, this region had been cut off from regions in SA, such as Peru, Bolivia, Chile, and the western part of what is now Argentina. Starting in the late 1500’s and lasting hundreds of years, BA had more ties to Europe than SA. As we walked through the city we started in the oldest part where settlers had landed and several statues marked the spot. Nick explained that the river bank used to be there, even though the current harbor was about a mile away. As more people arrived and the city developed, additional land was created using canals and civil engineering. As we walked through those created neighborhoods, he pointed out graffiti in Russian (many young Russians moved there after the war in Ukraine to fighting), a Swedish church, a ICBC (China Bank) skyscraper and of course many catholic parishes created by Italian and Spanish immigrants. The British were also there and left their mark with clock towers and brick warehouses. It truly is a melting pot city that has much cultural diversity, which I loved.  Nick also explained the politics and economic situation (relevant to all tourists as well because of the money exchange situation), what I didn’t realize is how closely the US and the IMF have influenced Argentina’s politics and economy. There is no denying how events happening in one country affect another country halfway around the world. I’ve witnessed that on all my travels and was reminded of it again on the tour. Nick also had a movie recommendation if we were interested in a deeper dive, “Argentina 1985”, on Amazon Prime. Related to that time period, we stopped at a memorial to disappeared people, which was erected under a highway overpass. We finished our tour at the Casa Rosada (Pink House) where the president used to live but now houses government offices and a museum.

Without planning it, I’ve come full circle. BA has its origins with Spanish and Portuguese history. The city felt like I’m in those countries, the countries where I started my journey over a year ago. I love how serendipity or divine wisdom, whatever you want to call it, have been guiding me, and leading me this whole time. It feels like I’ve come full circle, and that this journey is ready to conclude. It feels like the right time and place to finish. 

Friday, November 1, was a big milestone: 400 days on my RTW journey and country number 20! One of my favorite ways to travel is by boat, so I was very happy to be able to spend my last weekend of RTW by taking a ferry to Uruguay. As I waited to board the ferry from BA I felt very emotional. There had already been a few signs that made it feel special. The feeling reminded  me of Matthew McConaughey’s book “Green Lights”. The Uber car that picked me up was a ford fiesta, which was my first choice for the car I want to buy when I return home. I’ve been wanting to get a ride in one, and I did just that! The boarding process for the ferry was exactly like airport check in– bags thru scanner, queue for immigration to Uruguay. No visa is required for US citizens, but several other requirements “may” be asked for. So I was prepared with my travel insurance, sufficient funds proof, and an onward ticket. None were asked for; smooth sailing! The green light was when I checked my Uruguay stamp. It was on page 20 of my passport. Coincidence? I think not.

I was traveling  light with just my 26 liter backpack and feeling light of heart as well! The way things fell into place the last few days was affirmation that traveling slow, being open to changing plans, and remaining ready to embrace whatever comes my way had truly been the plan all along. And, it unfolded beautifully. I’m so grateful for the entire journey, with all its ups and downs, all the twists and turns. It’s been the exact start of my next life chapter that I always dreamed of. I’ve traveled around the world, made new friends, stayed connected with family in a much deeper way than I imagined, fell more in love with nature’s majesty, and affirmed that people around the world are far more alike than different. Our different customs and cultures have kept my curiosity and love for learning alive It’s been such an adventure and I’m so happy that all of you came along for the ride!

I quickly relaxed into the Uruguayan laid back attitude, wandering around the cobblestone streets, decorative shops and colorful cafes for most of the day. There is an iconic pedestrian street called the street of sighs (Calle de los Suspiros) which captures this feeling so well. There are a few stories about how this street got its name, but the one I like most is of sailors getting off a ship after a long journey and sighing – for many reasons! But that version of returning to shore resonates with me. I gave myself those last few days to let out a collective sigh and soak in what I’ve accomplished. I really did it! I traveled around the world this past year! I’m so grateful that I’ve adapted into a flow where I can feel at home so quickly regardless of the rapidity changing scenery. Recognizing that some places feel more like home than others, Colonia was one of those places where I could rest, relax, be in the moment and just enjoy the simple pleasures of the day. A gorgeous sunset, observing people sharing a mate beverage (herbal drink) with warmth and love, seeing families gathering, watching individuals stopping to notice the beauty of the place we shared at the moment. This intention of being present to soak in a collective sigh of joy was reinforced when I put my phone on time lapse to capture the sunset. With my phone busy, I wasn’t tempted to scroll or check anything. Instead, I noticed the birds flying around the shore, took note of two different bands of clouds rolling across the sky, watched someone fishing, and noticed kids playing futbol with an almost deflated ball, not caring one bit that it wasn’t perfect. I was content and my reward for leaving my phone alone was a beautiful sunset reel to remember the feeling I had in Colonia. My two days in Uruguay were the perfect last excursion.

I felt so nostalgic getting on the ferry to return to BA. I  arrived at the dock a little earlier than the last check in time of 4:30pm . There were already long lines, similar to airport check ins. When I handed the desk clerk my passport and ticket, he told me that I could make the 4:30 ferry. “Cool”, I thought. He rushed me ahead of the long line (which I later found out was headed to Montevideo). I boarded quickly, later realizing I’d miss sunset onboard, which had been my plan. The clerk had mentioned that the winds were really picking up and the 6:00 crossing could potentially be canceled, so it was better to catch the 4:30 one he advised. Even at the end of ALL my travels, I still had to go with the flow and adapt! The ferry ride would be the last nautical miles of my trip around the world. It was very windy and sunny, the perfect combo to feel all the elements as I sat on the outside bow bench seats. The sun was shining brilliantly, and every now and again sea spray would come up over the bow. People would come and go, and only a few of us stayed for the whole 90 minute crossing. It was a big ferry with cars and passengers, and walking across the bow was tricky when a side wind came across. I found a seat in the middle of the bench, secured my backpack between my knees, and rode the waves back to BA. I love being on the water so much that I started to daydream about how I’d get back to kayaking and boating at home. Anything to bring more of the joy I feel while being on the open sea! New ideas and plans were forming already when I tapped into what brings me joy and fed that — that’s a wisdom I’ve gained on this trip. Without the time constraint of working full time, I can now dedicate myself to the experiences that bring me joy. This trip has helped me refine what that means and get in touch with those passions. What a gift!

In some ways it felt like all of a sudden my time to travel and explore was fast coming to an end! I spent 3 days packing, picking up a few last souvenirs, gifts, and took one afternoon to wander around the Botanical Rose Garden in BA. Spending time at the rose garden literally allowed me to stop and smell the roses, reflecting on the last 14 months. My heart felt so full and grateful for the opportunity to explore the world, give back where I could, connect with nature, meet people along the way and make friends. 

My last new friend, Angeles, was at the family farm so I had the spacious apartment to myself. Angeles and I chatted and spoke several times during my stay. Her hospitality was so warm and generous. She genuinely trusted me with her home, her bus transit card, and a neighbor’s phone number in case I needed anything while she was away. I’m so thankful to Jim for connecting me with his aunt and making my final stop in Argentina one to remember!

Wednesday November 6, I took an Uber to the EZE airport with my two backpacks and started my overnight flight to Miami. After a brief layover in Miami, I had a quick morning flight to Boston. I rented a car and drove to my friend Kristin’s house. I truly had come full circle– Kristin had hosted me the last night in Massachusetts and drove me to the Logan Airport in September, 2023 where my travels began!

Dear friends, we’ve reached the end of this journey! My heartfelt thanks and appreciation to each and everyone one of you who have joined me on this incredible experience. Whether it was meeting me along the way, reading this blog, donating to World Bicycle Relief, sending your good wishes just when I needed them, or becoming a new friend through my travels, all of you have enriched my life in ways that will continue to unfold long after the trip of my life time has concluded. 

I’d like to extend an extra special thanks to Corrine Kahl, my chosen daughter and blog editor. Her tireless and talented effort to make this blog a reality is a gift I will cherish for the rest of my days.

Before I set off for China in 2011, my son Mike sent me a special quote as a send-off gift. As I reflect on my overall journey, that same quote has been swirling through my mind: “Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn’t do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines, sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore.”— Mark Twain. As I traveled, Mike handled all of my affairs on the home-front. Because of him, I was able to fully enjoy my time around the world, knowing that he had everything covered.

The added bonus to this journey around the world has been how much closer I became with Mike and Corrine. The parent-child relationship really came full circle, as life often does, and I was able to rest easily knowing that they were taking care of me. My heart is so full, and I couldn’t possibly be prouder! Until we connect again: stay safe, stay healthy, and always remember to make space for what brings you joy.

“I can’t change the direction of the wind,
but I can adjust my sails
to always reach my destination.“
-Jimmy Dean