RTW ’24: Caravaning Through New Zealand

Choosing to caravan through New Zealand proved to be a great choice! I wanted a means of transportation that gave me the flexibility I needed to make changes to my itinerary along the way, but also provided me with the stability of knowing that I always had a place to stay. I’m no stranger to camping, so finding spots along the way to sleep each night was relatively easy– and I didn’t need to schedule time to set up camp! I had everything I needed right in my camper van. As I traveled along the roads of New Zealand, my van quickly started to feel like home.

One of the biggest obstacles to conquer while traveling is the weather. It’s easy to travel when the sun is shining and Mother Nature is in a good mood… but when the weather pattern shifts, it becomes much more challenging. Such was the case on Wednesday. My camper van does have a kitchenette, but it’s not fully contained inside the vehicle, and I didn’t want to contend with the rain, so I took the opportunity to find a coffee shop with a bakery for breakfast. Afterwards, I hopped back in my van and started my drive for the day. Another challenge I’ve found is contending with my natural sense of direction. In the states, I don’t have an issue with placing myself on the map. In the southern hemisphere, however, I’m all turned around. Everything is backwards! As I drive south, it gets colder, not warmer like in the US. Further, the west coast is on the right side of my map, whereas I usually think of the west as being on my left. The weather report lists Northerlies direction… and I’m still not sure if that means that the winds are coming from the north or going towards the north. Attempting to drive out of a rainstorm was quite the challenge when I was having difficulty figuring out exactly where it was coming from! Nonetheless, I persevered, and made the best of it. I found the Rotura sulfur lake, which was quite the comparison to the previous days forest and fresh waterfalls. The smell was horrific initially (think hot rotten eggs), but after a while, I got used to it. Interestingly enough, the large lake area didn’t smell nearly as bad as some of the smaller ponds! I also found Huka Falls, which was breathtaking! I learned that the volume of water flowing through the falls often approaches 220 cubic meters (or 60,000 gallons) per second. That makes it one of the highest flowing waterfalls in the world! Huka Falls was easily my favorite falls so far. The sound, energy, and glacier blue color were captivating. Even the drizzle of rain couldn’t detract from the experience! The variety of ecosystems and natural landscapes in New Zealand is really wild. One moment I’m standing by a waterfall, the next moment I’m looking at a huge mountain, and before I know it, I’m standing beside a sulfur lake, wishing my sense of smell wasn’t quite as robust.

On Thursday, I woke up to more rain. Instead of struggling to make breakfast, I opted to drive directly into the nearest town, Taupo, and treat myself to breakfast at a local cafe. After a delicious breakfast, I walked around the town to look for a few items I needed– warmer hat, gloves, a car charger and some food to replenish my stock. I even found the local library! Everyone was so nice and helpful in town. All of the shopkeepers were upbeat, the tourist office was super helpful, and the library staff were eager to chat. It was a great way to start the day! From Taupo I drove to a national park, which was another breathtaking scenic display. The rain stopped around 1:00 and the skies were partly cloudy with some sun, so I found a lookout point to stop at and take in the view. One downside of driving solo is that I can’t take pictures along the way when I’m behind the wheel, and unfortunately for you, the snapshots in my brain cannot be printed on the blog– but these snapshots are forever imprinted in my mind.

Traveling in the camper van feels like luxury… most of the time. One awesome convenience of having the camper van is that it’s equipped with a toilet, which comes in handy when I’m in the middle of nowhere. The flip side of that, however, is that the waste cassette needs to be emptied. I have an app for all things campervan called “Camper Mate”, which is very useful. One of the features of the app is that I can easily find a dump station. So, I utilized the app, and drove to the nearest dump station, which also had a huge free camper lot and some other amenities. I walked around the grounds looking for an obvious dump station signs, but I didn’t see anything near the toilets, showers or trash. I looked around a bit more and saw someone emptying a plastic container. I found the dump station! There wasn’t a big sign saying “waste”, but I watched what he did, and then went back to the van to figure out how to separate the throne of the toilet from the messy part. Eventually, I got it apart, being careful to keep the dirty part closed AND level, as to not spill. It really did need to be disposed of! I made my way to the disposal hole, and that’s where the real fun began! The guy from earlier was still around emptying his gray sink water, but I had waste to get rid of, so I went to work. I managed to drain most of it directly into the receptacle, but unfortunately, some feces was in the drain area. It was so weird to be that close to waste! I used the hose provide to wash the area, but a few bits remained as the same guy walked over. I mentioned to him that this was my first time emptying my van. He surveyed the area, then me, and only had one comment: “You need more fiber in your diet!”. I was speechless! I do appreciate that people here are straightforward and tell it like it is, but I wasn’t expecting that! After a moment, I just said “sorry, first time…” and finished my task. Once I was back at my van, I had to figure out how to reassemble the pieces after cleaning and sanitizing the unit. Even though I had taken it apart, so I should have known which pieces went where, it proved extremely tough. I needed three very skinny hands, and I only had my two. After some cursing, I took a break and sat in the driver’s seat. I turned around and realized that if I just changed the way I say in the van, I could get both hands in the right spot to reassemble it. Once I figured that out, I got back to work and pieced it together. Sometimes, a change of view is all that’s needed to solve a problem!

Saturday was one of the few 10/10 days on my entire RTW journey thus far. I planned a hike at Tongariro Alpine Crossing, which is one of the top 10 hikes in the world for a reason. It has everything you could imagine: a volcano, active geysers, glacier lakes, plains and forests. There’s something for everyone! A shuttle bus picked me up at 7:15 a.m., just before sunrise. There were about twenty of us waiting, and the atmosphere mimicked that of a pre-race bus ride– a lot of anticipation and excitement. The ride to the trailhead was about thirty minutes. Once we arrived, we all poured out of the bus, checked signage and trail markers, and started on the trail. Thankfully, there wasn’t any snow, but the presence of frost was enough motivation to get my body moving quickly to warm up. The elevation map showed an incline for the first half of the hike, and a decline for the second half. The first few miles were easy with well marked signage and gravel. There were even clean pit toilets, with toilet paper, every two hours. It was starting off really nice, and before long, my body warmed up and I was in a rhythm. I loved being in such a wild and unique landscape. There was black volcanic soil and lava rocks (just like the ones in fireplaces!) everywhere I looked, and the atmosphere with the other hikers was jovial. Everyone was enjoying the sunny day and easy terrain. After three hours, the incline got steeper. I spotted a sign that said “The easy part is over, it’s much harder the rest of the way”, and braced myself for the shift. The overall mood got much more serious after that! The path was far less groomed, and the incline with high steps started. We were making our way to the red crater! It was true that after that sign we were all committed to finishing– there was no side trail, or exit. The microclimate weather kicked in, and I had to stop several times to add or remove a layer, eat a snack, or get a drink. I was happy with all of my pre-hike preparations, and used everything in my backpack with the exception of (thankfully) my first aid kit. It got harder and harder by the minute. The incline was steeper, the path narrowed, more rocks were present and we frequented the mountains edge. I kept checking my timing to ensure I was keeping a good pace, and stopped to take a rest when needed. I would pass by a few folks, and then further down the path, they would pass me. Most of the hikers were on a mission– the chatting and smiling lessened as they focused on tackling the terrain– with the exception of a group of 20-somethings from Brazil and Argentina. Though they were working hard, they continued joking and singing regardless of the conditions, which I very much appreciated. It brought me joy, and took the edge off!

The final ascent up to the Red Crater, which had views of the lake, was extremely difficult. I stopped less because I just wanted to finish the struggle… and there was no place to step aside– it was on the edge of a drop off. I’d stop to catch my breath, and other hikers would pass by, checking in to make sure I was okay and encouraging me that “we’re almost there!”. I did the same checking in when I passed someone, feeling grateful for the community we built on the side of the mountain. After some hard climbs, there was a clearing and I saw some people gathered. I’d made it to the top! Or so I thought. It was a false summit. There was one more climb. Upwards and onwards! When I did finally make it to the top, I felt such a huge sense of accomplishment. My body and mind had gotten me to the top of a volcano, with a view that is out of this world. It was very much what you’d imagine Mars to be like! There were a lot of people hanging out and sitting down, eating and chatting. The mood was so much lighter, matching the air we were taking in. I found a flat rock to sit on and enjoyed the best PB&J sandwich that I’ve had in a long time! I took in the incredible views and filled my belly, thankful to be in such an incredible place.

After a brief reprieve, it was time to hike the second half down. The buses picked up hikers at the trailhead at 4:00 and 5:30. I checked the time: 12:30. Plenty of time to catch the 4:00 bus, I thought to myself. I started my descent, and quickly found out that going downhill on a volcano is very technical. There’s even a term for it, “steep scree slope”. Little lava rocks and loose gravel slowed me down right away! The descent angle was about the same going down as it had been going up (35-40 degrees), and I found myself intentionally going on my butt several times just to get down especially steep sections safely. When I wasn’t on my rear end, I was really thankful for my walking poles! I stepped sideways at angles, much like going down a ski slope. Eventually it got easier, and I stopped at one of the lakes to finish my lunch. From that point onwards, it was mostly a nice downhill trek, with the paths getting easier as I moved down. By 2:30, I was getting tired, and I still had 4.5 miles to go. I gave up on the idea of making the 4:00 bus and watched my time to make sure I caught the 5:30 ride. The last two miles were in a beautiful forest, which I could only half enjoy because of exhaustion. I reached the end at 4:45 and was so glad to see the parking lot in the distance. I totally love being in nature, and the exhaustion was well worth the epic views, but the sight of parking lot pavement meant I could rest, and that was welcomed. The Brazil/Argentina group finished around the same time as me, and we waited for the bus. It arrived on time! Unfortunately for them, they had not purchased shuttle ride tickets, and there weren’t enough seats left for them. The driver was understandably annoyed that the group hadn’t planned better, but there was nothing to be done. I chatted with one of the girls and she told me they left their cars at the trailhead, but the bus didn’t go back to the beginning. I offered that I could take her to one of the cars if she rode the bus, but they opted for two of their group to get a ride part way down and walk in the dark to their cars. My offer was a good one, but it would have taken them much longer to get all of them back. I felt bad for them, but they did take a gamble when they didn’t plan, and they learned a lesson the hard way. As our bust rode off, I could see the rest of them putting on all of their layers and huddling close together, bracing for the cold. They’ll have a good story to tell! Overall, the day was absolutely EPIC! I was literally on top of an active volcano, walked past glacier lakes, and hiked through hardwood forests. It was blissful, even though it was one of the toughest hikes physically, technically, and mentally that I’ve ever done. I was, yet again, thankful to my body for getting me through yet another amazing adventure!

When I woke up on Sunday, it was gold in the van and I was fatigued and sore from the strenuous hike the day before. My quads were sore and my shins ached, but my bruised toenails held up! Hikers rule #1: take good care of your feet! The hike really wiped me out, but it was so worth it! After surveying my body, I decided to take it easy for the day. I drove into Wellington and took note of the scenery around me as I traveled south into colder temperatures. The landscape continued to amaze me– gorgeous mountains gave way to rolling hills and the sun made brief appearances between the mountain peaks. I noticed that driving felt more natural. I think “left side” without consciously reminding my brain. I knew I had it when I started to go to the right side of the van to get in the driver’s seat without thinking about it. I found a carpark inn to settle into for the evening with shared rooms and spaces for campers, including an amenities house. I got some groceries and made an actual meal from scratch instead of heating soup (which had become my quick camping dinner routine), did some laundry, took a hot shower, and slept well in my van bed. I’m getting very comfortable sleeping in the same bed each night!

I spent the following day getting things checked off of my to-do list before catching an afternoon ferry. I arrived at the dock and checked my car into the queue with enough time to take a walk around downtown Wellington before my departure. I really liked the harbor area and even scoped out a carpark near the dock for when I circle back to return the van in a few short weeks. I returned to my van just in time to board the ferry. It was very different to drive a can onto the ferry. The ferry was similar to the ones going to Martha’s Vineyard, but I normally don’t take my car to the vineyard, so it was a different experience. After parking, I found my way to the viewing deck. I loved being back on a ship, watching the vessel leave the harbor! After we left, the weather turned cold and rainy, so I went inside and ate my packed lunch. The weather report called for some rough seas, so I decided to take a Dramamine just in case. After my treacherous seasick experience months ago, I didn’t want to risk it since I had to drive once we docked. I dosed off for a little while, waking up when we pulled into Picton. Thankfully, I booked a side close to the dock, so I settled in quickly and got another great night’s sleep.

One of the things that is so captivating about New Zealand is the constantly changing landscapes. I don’t get mountain views when I’m driving at home! In the middle of the week, I found myself driving through farm lands along the west coast, which felt comforting and familiar. Though I’ve been making a home wherever my feet are planted, small glimpses into life back home brings warmth. Since the weather wasn’t inviting me to go hiking or hang outside, I was putting more miles in and not doing much sightseeing. I figured I might as well get the distance in on rainy days so I can linger in nature when the weather is nicer. So, I watched the changing scenery from my van window and listened to podcasts, which is a rather relaxing way to travel. I’m experiencing New Zealand on my terms, and since the weather is beyond my control, I do what feels good in the moment. Being in the country did me good, though. It’s the little things like sidewalk crossings with lights, paved roads with painted lines and rumble strips, and clean public toilets with t.p. Along the highways, I saw big farms and rolling hills, reminiscent of south Jersey. There were many cattle and sheep, too! Various trees– pine, eucalyptus, and aspen– divided the fields. Sheep are in abundance, with their presence far outweighing the human population at 25 million sheep to 5 million people. I even saw some alpacas!

As I continued my drive, the farmland scape turned into rolling hills with mist and rain. In less than 24 hours, my mind moved from Jersey to Scotland, and I felt a new wave of warmth and familiarity. Once I settled for the night, I researched the area of Dunedin, the place I drove through that felt so much like Scotland. As it turns out, that part of New Zealand was, indeed, settled by the Scots! My intuition was right– it felt like Scotland for a reason. It’s incredible, really, that I have so many points of reference for all of the places that I’m seeing!

On Friday, I spent a lot of time at the Albatross center. I toured the center at 11, then went for a hike at a nearby trail of nature hills that look like pyramids, then went back to the Albatross center for a penguin tour! On the tour, I learned so much about the area. The end of the peninsula, Otago, was cleared of vegetation in the late 1800’s to build a defensive gun and encampment. No battles where ever fought there, but they were prepared! In the early 1900’s, royal albatross’ started nesting there as it was easier to land with less vegetation to fight with. Around 1930, a conservationist started tracking and helping them, and with the army defense ending after WWII, it turned into a museum and the focus is now on saving the endangered Albatross. It’s such a cool story about how, in this case, clearing land for human use turned into a favor for wildlife– a great conservation for Albatross and penguins alike. In the 1990’s, they built a platform where the penguins nest so people can observe, but not disturb, the penguins. The tour guide said “we’re the zoo, confined to an area, in order to give the penguins free roaming”. It’s a really cool concept!

I really connected with life on the Otago Peninsula. The shore wildlife, decorated boat houses and bus stops, and people running and walking along the shore path gave me a sense that people who live there really appreciate where they are and take good care to preserve it. I was driving down a particularly windy road and there was sign that read “pullover if car behind is close”. I loved the sentiment– giving a solution instead of encouraging an accident. In essence, choose kindness over road rage. As June 20th, the shortest day of winter in the southern hemisphere, approaches, I find myself hibernating with the rest of nature, much like I do back home. I’m going to bed earlier, sleeping more, and not spending as much time outside because of the weather. Winter is welcomed, because before long, I’ll be back in the tropics, soaking up the sun.

And just like that, the scenery changed yet again. In a few short hours, I drove from Otago Peninsula with lapping waves and shore birds to snow capped mountains, vast canyons and foothills. This country really does have it all, which is shocking for a relatively small island. Both north and south islands are similar in size to Colorado, and similar in population to Louisiana. NZ has both oceanfront views and mountain scenes, which I’ve been able to experience in my own timing due to the freedom my campervan offers. What a truly beautiful life it is.

On Sunday, I landed at Te Anau, known as “middle earth”. It’s the farthest south that I’ll be driving on the island, and it’s the farthest south in latitude I’ve ever been, so although it may be “middle”, it’s very much down under for me! There’s so much to do, and the town had everything I needed, so I stayed for a few days. I decided to take a boat ride to a cave. The ride itself was nice and smooth, with calm waters on Te Anau lake. After a short thirty minute ride, we got off of the boat at a dock and went into a building for a presentation about glow worms. Our guide was from Scotland, in NZ on a work visa. During the presentation, I learned that the worms are actually maggots that turn into a fungus gnat. Jokingly, our guide asked us if we would have come across the lake to see maggots if they were marketed that way. Likely, I wouldn’t have! After the presentation, we walked down to the cave and, once inside, we walked onto metal stairs and walkways with waterfalls and water underneath our feet. Then, we boarded a canoe-like boat. He turned off the lights, and we were in total darkness. With a long oar, he maneuvered us down a channel to see the glow worms above us. It was so unusual to be in darkness, seeing thousands of white dots and strings on the ceiling. Little drops of water fell on us occasionally, and I tried my hardest to shake the idea of a maggot crawling on my skin. A few times, the canoe bumped against the side of the cave walls, creating an experience similar to that of an amusement park ride, except we were in a natural cave with very unusual critters inside. The ride lasted about twenty minutes, then we made our way out of the cave and walked around the woods. It was quite the experience! Photos weren’t allowed inside the cave, but the photos below from the website are very close to the real thing!

Everyone always asks me where my favorite place on my travels has been, and I’ve never had an answer. There are so many miraculous and place-specific endeavors at each and every place I’ve gone… but I’m starting to feel like my answer is New Zealand. I feel so at home, here. The nature is just amazing! Each day there is another jaw-dropping place to see, the general population is outdoorsy and helpful, and there’s a sense of free spirit at every turn. The infrastructure for camping and outdoors adventures is so good and well maintained, which is much better than back home. All of the things I love are in one easy-to-navigate place! While I’ve been here, walking through some of the most beautiful places I’ve ever seen, I’ve been thinking about life and the big picture. I’m so grateful for my health and this incredible opportunity to travel while staying connected with my loved ones (including you!) all around the world. Life is a treasure, and I’m so thankful that I get to cherish it in this way. Until next time, dear friends: stay safe, stay healthy, and always remember to make space for what brings you joy.

Being happy requires that you define your life in your own terms
and then throw your whole heart into living your life to the fullest.
-Brian Tracy