RTW ’23 Week 7

Week 7 of RTW ’23 looked very different from all of my other weeks so far. For the first time on my journey, I stayed in one place for the entire week– not because of a hiccup or obstacle, but because I planned it that way! It certainly felt different to not have to be on the go all of the time, but I welcomed the rest and the idea of calling a new place home, even if just for a short while. Exploring a new city was very exciting! From watching the hustle and bustle of the people moving about, to exploring museums and city staples, to tasting the cuisine of the area, it was a week full of adventure, rest, and reflection. Bilbao’s history, architecture, grit, and tenacity are so rich. Because I’m traveling the way that people have been for a long time, I’ll be passing through more places with stories of transformation, rebirth and ingenuity. I love how my RTW journey is working out so serendipitously!

On Wednesday, I woke up bright and early at 5:45 a.m. to prepare for my trip from Santiago to Bilbao. I wanted to give myself enough time to process my goodbye to Santiago, and ensure I had plenty of time to get to the train station, though I had no idea just how difficult navigating the transfers was going to be. There was rail work being done at Ourense, so everyone had to get off of the train and board a bus to Monforte de Lemos, just south of Sarria. Once we arrived there, we had to board another train with a final destination to Barcelona. At Miranda de Ebro, I changed trains to get to Bilbao. The station there was smaller than I expected without any ticket counter or signage to tell passengers where to go. My ticket said to board at track 2, but there were no track signs, so I quickly asked the conductor on the train that I just departed where to go. She pointed to a train across the tracks, so I hurriedly made my way over. During moments like this, I always pretend that I’m on the Amazing Race and it’s a game to figure out the fastest way. It certainly helps to turn anxiety-inducing situations into something fun! Luckily, I found the track crossing in time, which I confirmed with someone else who was also waiting on the Bilbao train. There was nothing on the train indicating where it was headed, but when it left at the time listed on my ticket, I assumed I was on the right one. Thankfully, I was right! With all of the transfers that happened throughout the day, I was happy to have a lighter backpack. Bit by bit, I’m pairing down to the essentials. On the train ride in, I saw some amazing views of Basque Country. It was absolutely breathtaking, and reminded me of the American West. I found myself thinking about my fellow pilgrims who had hiked over these passes– everyone spoke so highly of the beauty and hospitality in the Basque region, and their affection to this part of Spain had been well earned. Between the provinces of Alava and Vizcaya lies the largest Basque natural park, Gorbea Natural Park, a protected area stretching 20,0008 hectares. It felt odd to cover so much ground in one day, especially after doing the majority of my previous travel via foot and bike. From the train window, I still found myself looking for walking paths. It brought me so much joy when I spotted a few pilgrims, and when the train stopped at Astorga, I reminisced about the time Pam and I walked through there 7 years ago on our last Camino. After I arrived in Bilbao, I found my hostel for the next week, Latroupe, and checked in close to 8 p.m., which is early supper in Spain. I went for a stroll to explore my new city, which felt really big compared to the little country towns I had been accustomed to. I checked the population of the city, and it’s just under half a million, so it’s more like Boston versus NYC. I wandered towards the Guggenheim Museum, taking in the city’s charm, and I found the Zubizuri, also called the Campo Colanin Bridge or Puente del Campo Volantin. It’s a tied arch footbridge that spans across the Nerving River, designed by the architect Santiago Calatrava, linking Campo Volantin (on the right) and Uribitarte (on the left). While strolling the river bank, I found a nice cafe with live jazz music, so I settled in and ate a sandwich with a Pellegrino seltzer on ice. It’s been ages since I had a cold beverage with ice, as I had been drinking tap water at room temperature or directly from my Camelbak for weeks. It was a refreshing treat, and yet another reminder that I’m not on the Camino anymore!

Thursday offered some great insight on the history of Bilbao. It was one of those days where I felt like I had to pinch myself to believe that this is really my life. I slept well in a new bunk bed and woke up ready to learn about a new city and region of Spain, and I was not disappointed! I started my day with a walking tour of the city, led by Gillen, a Bilbao born Basque person who studied architecture and had a lot of unique insight about the city. On the tour, I learned that Bilbao means “natural bridge” in the Basque language and the city developed as a special trade zone, with the most important feature of the city being the Rio, the river water. Interestingly, the Euskera (or Basque) language, is one of the oldest languages spoken and, linguistically speaking, has no direct link to any other known language. It is totally isolated from any other living language, and very well may be the oldest language in Europe! “Bigotz” is a word in their language meaning “heart”, and as in many other languages, it refers not only to the vital organ, but to another important metaphorical meaning as well. “Bihotz oneko”, translating to “good hearted”, means “that which is noble”, while “bihotz mautsia” means ” broken hearted” , or how you feel when you’ve been let down. The famous singer-songwriter Mikel Laboa used to sing a beautiful song named “Antzinako Bihotz” (Archaic Heart), which the guide said (while putting his fist against his chest) translates also to the sound of a beating heart. As you all know, my heart is drawn to the sea, so when he told us that the first person to ever sail around the world was from Bilbao, my heart instantly felt connected with him and his travelers spirit. After the walking tour, I wandered around the city on my own, and found the Norte Camino. It was nostalgic to see the yellow arrows and scallop shell! Of course, the path led up many flights of stairs to an old church, but I didn’t mind the climb. I found myself missing all of the walking, so I followed the path until it led to the outskirts of the city. Eventually, my stomach reminded me that it needed nourishment, so I found my way back as it started to rain heavily. It wasn’t late enough for dinner, so I went into the La Ribera Market and enjoyed Pintxos and a glass of Sangria– when in Bilbao!

Friday proved to be another productive day walking around Bilbao. I stopped at a Starbucks to get a coffee– an Americano in a takeaway cup– to enjoy as I walked in the rain to the Guggenheim museum. What I noticed, as I was juggling my umbrella and coffee cup, was that no one had a takeaway coffee, either in the shop or on the street. Walking with a coffee on the way to wherever one is going is an American phenomena. In Spain, and probably in Europe, if someone wants a coffee, they simply stop at a shop, sit down, and drink it there. They don’t try and do everything at once in a hurry; rather, they take the time to sit and really enjoy it. There is time to drink coffee, and there is time to walk in the rain, but not at the same time. It was a treat to easily order in English at a Starbucks, but my lesson of the day was to be present and savor each treat that the day brings. There’s time for it all! Once I arrived at the Guggenheim, I was absolutely blown away. It’s 450,000 square feet spanning three floors, which meant there was much to see– including the architecture of the building itself. I arrived when it opened with many other eager people waiting to see what treasures awaited us inside. I was a little concerned about feeling too crowded, but the spaces were so open that everyone spread out quickly, and I remained comfortable inside. Picture taking of the artwork was strictly prohibited, but it clearly wasn’t enforced as I saw many people taking photos with their phones. I used the free audio app to listen to descriptions of the artwork which, thankfully, automatically translated to English, and took screenshots of some of my favorite pieces from the app. I did snap two pictures of people observing the art, which was something I first did during my time in Paris. I had read that it can be as interesting to watch people looking at a piece of art as it is to study the art itself. Though there are many brilliant works of art in the building, there were four that stood out as my favorites. The first, The Matter of Time by Richard Serra, is a massive formed steel walk-through work that represents the idea of moving through space and time, and being in the art itself felt so novel. As I walked through the piece and listened to the reasoning behind it, I began to appreciate the geometric shapes and how we move through time in waves. The second, Palingenesis (Rebirth) by Lee Krasner (wife of Jackson Pollock), is a painting that immediately drew me in before I knew anything about the piece, or the artist. I loved the colors, but there was something more calling out to me, and once I listened to the description of the piece, I knew exactly what it was– the painting represented nature and rebirth, and I found the piece of art evoking tears. It’s amazing to me what emotions art can evoke! The third piece, Alabaster by Cristina Iglesias, was an architectural 3D piece made of delicate media (alabaster) and rigid form (steel) to create a piece you can walk into. The contrast of the two mediums, and how they balanced each other out, was remarkable and beautiful. Finally, the Infinity Mirror Room by Yayoi Kusama, was an immersive art room that each person had to wait in queue for. The artists story and novelty of the room were well worth the wait! Pictures, and even words, just cannot describe the experience, and I found myself saying “WOW!” quite a few times as I turned in the mirrored room. After Guggenheim, I took a funicular cable car to Mt. Artxanda. Once I reached the top, I was able to look down and see the vast city of Bilbao, which was much larger in scope than I would have thought. Earlier, I received an email that due to expected severe weather, my ferry to the UK on Tuesday next week is delayed to Wednesday, and boarding in the morning instead of the afternoon. I also realized that my current hostel is more than 10 miles from the ferry, so I took the subway in the direction of the fairy to see what the surrounding neighborhood is like. Sometimes port areas can be very industrial and unsafe, but this one was a cute town with a lot of people walking around in the evening, so I found a really nice hotel close to the subway stop for next Tuesday night. The problem was easily solved when I found a beautiful hotel and decided to treat myself by booking to stay there for the night next week before mt departure, which I haven’t done since my time with Pam. It’s a pretty nice consolation for the delay! It seems as though my hiccup-management and ability to plan-pivot are becoming better and better with each delay that comes my way!

I found myself greatly missing having hiking miles under my feet, so on Saturday, I planned out a hike in Orozko to Menhir Kurtzegan, a huge rock at the top of a nearby summit, and it was absolutely incredible! In order to get there, I had to utilize public transit, which is surprisingly easy to navigate. I bought a transit card on my first day in Bilbao at the tourist office which works much like a debit card– you just swipe it when boarding any public transit, including the subway, buses and trams. The buses cover the regional area, so I took a bus a block from my hostel out to Orozko, 18 miles south. I arrived in a charming little mountain town just in time for the tourist office to open where I spoke with a nice young man who spoke English. He provided me with a trail map, in English, and directions on how to find the trailhead. He also warned me that the actual km and elevation of the hike was more than what was listed on the map, which stated 11.5 km loop and 600 meter gain and descent. I was ready for the challenge, and so happy to have my trusty pack with everything I needed for a day on the trail, including the 10 hiking essentials (https://americanhiking.org/resources/10essentials/) and my Garmin mini reach 2 tracker. Once I found the trailhead just outside of town, the trail blazes were easy to find. It was mostly gravel and rock paths, all leading up. I quickly took off a layer and started using my hiking sticks. It was one of those days that was perfect hiking conditions: cool and sunny with clear skies as far as I could see. I reached the hardwood forest, full of chestnut, oak, pine and birch, after roughly a mile, leading me up and up. It was so peaceful, and I was full of bliss being back in nature, hearing the birds sing and nothing else but my footsteps crunching pine needles beneath me. I was in my happy place, and though I felt the steady incline, I didn’t mind it at all. As I got closer to being above the treeline, I saw a few very large cows in the middle of the path– I reminisced about my time growing up in rural Pennsylvania, where I gained a healthy respect for all large animals. They seemed harmless, so I approached them calmly, and passed by. There would be many more animals and dogs to come! There weren’t very many wildflowers left since it’s nearing the end of the season, but I found a few little ones along the way. I didn’t get to “stop and smell the flowers” for long, as I needed to ensure that I got to the midpoint of the trail between 1 and 2 p.m. to complete the hike before sunset, which happens much earlier at higher elevations, or I would have to turn around. I saw a few people while I was on the trail– one woman trail running, two mountain bikers, and a few people off in the distance. Otherwise, it was quiet, and I enjoyed the solitude. The silence and peace fed my soul, and my heart was filled with gratitude for being able to experience days like these. I’m finding my rhythm of being a long-term traveler and being open to taking chances, much like this hike. I had not heard of the Gobreia Natural Park until I saw the mountains on the train ride to Bilbao, and now I found myself hiking into their beauty and majesty. By the time I got to the summit climb, my pace was on track, so I went for it! I was high above the treeline and paused for a few minutes to breathe deeply and take a look around. I had difficulty finding the right words to describe this place– majestic and spectacular just didn’t seem to do it justice. I was in awe, and although I’m not usually keen to keep climbing, in this moment I wanted to see what was at the top, so I kept going. I stopped every few minutes to look back at what I could see as my elevation inclined– it was breathtaking. Pictures and videos couldn’t capture it all, but I did my best to engrain it into my memory. About half way up, four sheep herding dogs started announcing my arrival, calling back and forth to each other. There were no less than 100 sheep scattered around the mountainside, with a few horses sprinkled here and there. There wasn’t a single human soul in sight, other than my own, and it was spectacular to watch these dogs in action, keeping the situation in control all on their own. One of the dogs walked over to greet me, wagging his tail, not showing a single tooth, so I cautiously, but willingly, waited for him to come up to me and pet his soft fur. He accepted the gesture, but looked disappointed that I didn’t have a treat to offer and moved on. I reached the summit after about 45 minutes of climbing where a huge vertical standing rock from the Pagan Era, Menhir Kurtzegan, towered above me surrounded by a fence. This was the perfect place to rest and enjoy lunch, so I settled in. Once I got off the trail, I was stepping around all kinds of manure from birds, sheep, cows, and other wild animals. You name it, I likely walked over it! The wind was consistent, bringing in sounds from the surrounding mountain tops. I got chilly pretty quickly so I added two layers before sitting down, resting against the large rock to eat. Every direction that I looked in offered its own majesty and grandeur. I was reminded of my tour guide, Gillen, when he told us about how the ancient Basque’s would use loud horns to send messages at the mountain tops. I could easily imagine that scene unfolding at this very spot and felt very connected to both the timelessness of nature and ancient culture of the place. Time was passing quickly and the wind picked up, so I knew it was time to get going in order to make it back before sundown. The rest of the hike back to town was all downhill, which was my jam! I loved skipping down the paths with my hiking sticks in tow. I got back to town about an hour before the bus arrived so I went back to the tourist office and let the man there know how great the hike was and that it was, in fact, more than what was listed– and my body knew it! I checked my elevation at the top and once I got back to town, it was almost an 800 meter (2,390 ft) climb! The tourist office had a small museum, so I wandered around for a bit and secured a snack for my bus ride home. It was, easily, a 10/10 day!

On the bus ride back, I heard someone saying, in English, that there was a marathon in Bilbao. As we approached the city center, the bus stopped before the station and everyone disembarked. We had to walk a few extra blocks, and I noticed all the tape roping off the streets. I made it back to my hostel and asked the front desk person about the marathon. She told me it was a night marathon that was about to start in just a few minutes with the finish line at the Guggenheim, so I dropped off my hiking stuff, grabbed another snack, and started towards the museum. Of course Spain would have a night marathon, it makes perfect sense– they start having dinner at 9 p.m., running at night totally fits. The whole city was a buzz and full of people watching, cheering, and running. I love the energy and positivity of these kinds of events! I found a good vantage point near the finish line and soaked up the street party atmosphere. The event included shorter distance races, so there were people crossing the finish line over and over for two hours straight before the full-length marathon even finished. Throughout the event, they even had live big screens tracking the man and woman in 1st place. It was a very fun Saturday night in Bilbao– I didn’t even need to understand the Spanish MC’s to catch the enthusiasm surrounding the race and embrace the party feeling. Those transcend language. When the 1st place man and woman crossed the finish line, it was just like being at a large futbol stadium– fireworks, shouting, and ecstatic cheering all around! As I walked back to my hostel around 10 p.m., there were still many runners on the course, but it was time for this weary traveler to rest her head.

I took a video during my hike in order to help better capture the feeling of this amazing place! Click “play” below to see the world from my perspective!

I gave myself permission to have a Spanish style Sunday– I took it easy and didn’t have an agenda. I’m beginning to realize that my trip is not a vacation and I don’t have to squeeze in every attraction and fill every day with touristy things. I’m reminding myself that it’s okay to cook a meal at the hostel, catch up on current events, enjoy some content from my favorite youtubers, and have phone conversations with friends. I caught up with my friends Karen and Debbie, and it was so wonderful to hear their voices and reconnect. The beauty of technology is that it can keep me connected to my friends and family wherever I roam, and it truly feels like magic that, in seconds, they can hear my voice from across the ocean. Finding stores and cafes open on a Sunday was quite the challenge. Since I spent Saturday on my hiking trip out of town, I forgot that all of the stores and shops would be closed on Sunday. I slept in late after being out at the nighttime marathon party, so I decided to wander around the old town to try and find something open. I do appreciate that Spain respects Sunday’s as a day of rest for everyone, including shopkeepers, but it does make it a challenge to find things in a pinch. Thankfully, I came across a cute little cafe that happened to be open, so I treated myself to an almond croissant and a coffee to fuel my hunt for a grocery store. I finally found one in the same neighborhood as the coffee shop, and I picked up enough groceries to last the few remaining days that I’ll be in Bilbao. Then I wandered around some more, enjoying the quiet streets after the buzz of the night before. The only noise was the zamboni, cleaning the street of the debris from the marathon. Someone was, indeed, working on Sunday. I imagine they were compensated quite well! Tomorrow, when the shops reopen, I’ll be looking for a bracelet or small trinket to remember Basque Country. There are two symbols that I’ll be on the lookout for. The first is the eguzkilore (eguzki=sun, lore=flower), which is a powerful symbol in Basque mythology, representing the dried flower of wild cacti. In the past, it was believed to scare away evil spirits and other dangers. It can still be seen on door lintels and chimneys, or as a decorative element in jewelry. Next is “Zazipak Bat”, which is a motto attributed to the Basque explorer Antoine-Thompson d’Abbadie in the late nineteenth century, from the Basque words “zazpiak”, meaning “the seven” and “bat”, meaning “one”. It translates as “the seven are one” and refers to the seven Basque Country traditional provinces. I found a quaint jewelry store and did some window shopping, making a mental note to return tomorrow when the shops reopen. Though it was a quiet and slow day without as much excitement as the day before, I ended the day feeling content and rested.

My original plan for Monday was based on the recommendation from the tourist office to visit Gaztelugatxe (Game of Thrones film site) on a weekday, but when I went to book my access ticket last week, I found a notice about road work being done, starting this Monday. I asked the front desk person at my hostel if she could confirm this, and she did, so she offered me a few alternatives for the day. I landed on visiting the Vizcaya Bridge, which was an easy train ride away. I spent the morning doing some shopping before venturing out, and I had a lot of fun shopping on my last full day in Bilbao. I went back to the jewelry shop I spotted yesterday, eager to see some of the pieces I spotted while window shopping before. The shop owner was super nice and patient with me as I decided on a gift as well as something for myself. I like that she explained the Basque meaning behind the symbols found on the various pieces of jewelry, which made me feel even more connected to the pieces I chose to purchase. As a bonus, she fixed a necklace clasp on my favorite chain that I had brought with me. I did some more shopping, and then found a post office (Correos) to ship a gift package back to the U.S. Then, I went to start my voyage to the Vizcaya Bridge. The weather began sunny, but turned cold and rainy as the day went on. After riding the gondola bridge across the Ibaizabal Rio, I walked along the beach until the rain was steadily falling. I ducked into a cafe to get a warm cafe con leche and pintxos, which were a nice reprieve before walking in the rain to the nearest train station to return to Bilbao. There are buses, trains and subways in and around Bilbao, and google maps makes it so easy to find where to walk to hop on to the nearest one, which is super helpful! Once I got back to Bilbao, I decided to stop in a store, Primark (like Kohl’s), that I had been passing by across the street from my hostel for almost a week now. I found a pair of jeans that I really liked, so I decided to purchase them as an option for a non-hiking outfit on my travel days. I know that I’ve been getting rid of a lot of clothes and downsizing my overall belongings, but I really craved a non-hiking outfit– and as long as I wear the jeans when I’m carrying my stuff, they don’t technically add extra weight to my pack… right? I finished the day doing laundry at the hostel and getting my belongings organized for my next trip. I met my first pilgrim at this hostel this evening– Hans, a teacher from Stuttgart, Germany– who is walking the Camino del Norte during his year long sabbatical from his career and decided to take a rest day in Bilbao. We shared some Camino stories and discussed our future travel plans, or what we want those plans to be, anyway!

Tuesday was a bittersweet day for me. Tomorrow, I will get on a ferry and leave Spain behind me. It’s so surreal to know that in just a day’s time, I will be somewhere completely different, which is both exciting and nerve-wracking. My time in Spain was fantastic– if not challenging– and I am so thankful for the lessons I learned and the experiences I had. I checked out of the Latroupe Hostel at 11 a.m., and then spent some time walking around Bilbao, feeling nostalgic about my time spent there. Bilbao is diverse on so many levels. There are many cultures represented and they are very proud of their Basque heritage, which only adds to what the country can offer its people and the world. I saw Muslim families, African street vendors, Gay couples holding hands, lots of tourists, and many students from around the world. Public displays of affection are very common amongst friends and couples alike, offering a genuineness that comes through despite any language barriers. Even the architecture and neighborhoods are diverse! From the ultra modern Guggenheim Museum and Zubizuri Bridge, to the quaint funicular cable car, to the ancient old town, Bilbao has maintained all of its eras and reinvented itself many times, much like the human experience itself. What started as the “natural bridge” of the trading post during seafaring ancient times morphed into a steel hub during the Industrial Revolution, and now functions as the culinary and arts center of Spain’s Basque region. It seems to be the scrappy alternative to San Sebastian, and is quite happy with the gritty persona. On my last full day in Spain, I feel like I’ve found the rhythm of Spanish life, though it took me awhile to get used to eating dinner very late, and my tapas sometimes felt like ice cream instead of a savory bite. Just as I have established the routine of lunch being the biggest meal of the day, off to another country I go, and we’ll see what their food rhythms are! I remember afternoon tea from my previous visits… is that like tapas time here? Spain has taught me so much– mostly to stay present in the moment and enjoy the “here and now”. I’ve also learned that I shouldn’t try to juggle too much at once, and that life is sweeter sipping espresso or vino and chatting with friends or strangers. I’m also very impressed with Spain’s public transportation system– it’s good for everyone to have cheap, reliable and clean methods of transportation. Spain certainly takes care of its people! Part of long-term traveling means working through the logistics of what works and what is still a work in progress. Some things are working really well, like using Airalo for my phone esims, which makes it easy to use one device to switch between my US phone number and country sims data plans. Likewise, my Surfshark VPN has been a lifesaver when I need to get into banking websites and other US based sites, not to mention the streaming services. Booking.com and Rome2Rio are two apps that have served me well for travel planning, and Apple Pay at checkouts has made my life infinitely easier to quickly get through check-outs without having to take my whole wallet out. These may seem like small conveniences, but they are every day bonuses that make all the difference while traveling. On the other hand, there are also works in progress. Packing my big backpack is getting better, but there’s still room for improvement– the items I need now vs the items I need later, and weight distribution, are still a challenge. The other big difficulty is ATM cash withdrawals. I pay for 90% of what I purchase with a card, but I like to keep cash for smaller purchases and for time spent in the countryside. My Charles Schwab debit card historically never charged a fee or exchange rate premium, but on this trip, there have been fees and premiums charges, which is an unexpected expense. I did call and ask about them, and they told me to look for certain logos on ATM kiosks, but hunting those down has not been easy. As I continue to travel through more continents, countries, cities and towns, I will continue to iron out the parts of travel that aren’t working as well as I’d like. Though challenges can be frustrating, it is pretty awesome to have the time to hone in on something that isn’t working and make it better! Overall, my time in Spain was truly spectacular, and I learned more about the country, and myself, than I ever would have imagined. I closed out Tuesday at my new hotel, URH Hotel Palacio de Oriol, and enjoyed my final dinner in Spain: salad, beef teriyaki, chocolate cake and, of course, white wine.

So, what’s on the horizon as I head to the Brittany Ferry Terminal on Wednesday morning? A few teasers include visiting family in Northern Ireland, visiting my twin hometown, Wareham, in southwest England, checking out Liverpool, and potentially adding a new country to my list and doing one of the British pilgrim walks. There’s so much to look forward to, not the least of which is that English is my native language and I lived in England during my childhood, so, in many ways, it feels like going home. Until next time, dear friends: stay safe, stay healthy, and always remember to make space for what brings you joy.

Live your truth.
Express your love.
Share your enthusiasm.
Take action towards your dreams.
Walk your talk.
Dance and sing to your music.
Embrace your blessings.
Make today worth remembering.
-Steve Maraboli