RTW ’23: Week 12

During week 12 I spent more time exploring Scotland. It was serendipitous to be in the country of my ancestors while everyone back in the USA celebrated Thanksgiving with family and friends. My heart was filled with gratitude to be able to celebrate a Thanksgiving of my own with other hostel-goers, filling our bellies with delicious food and connecting with one another over stories and intentions. There are, of course, various challenges and hiccups that occur and unforeseen events that impede plans, but everything always manages to work itself out, creating a space for new ideas, new people, new spaces, and even more to be thankful for.

Wednesday was another rainy day, so it turned into a rest day for me physically. I started out with some travel planning work for my Africa e-visa in Tanzania and Malawi. I also had to start planning for when Karen will join me in Tanzania! I’m so excited for her to go on Safari with me, so we connected to discuss that as well. It was an added bonus that it happened to also be her birthday! Speaking of birthdays, November 22nd is a big birthday day. It’s also my grandson’s, Trent, birthday! I’m so glad that I was able to connect with family and friends on their special day. In addition to celebrating important birthdays, I received some exciting information about my upcoming Africa trip. I opened an email from Arne notifying me which cargo ship I’ll be traveling on in January to get to Cape Town– the Blue Master II. The other good news is that now that I know the vessel’s name, I can track the location and get an idea if it’s going to arrive in Antwerp on the expected date. The rest of the day was well spent. I did shopping in several stores to find ingredients to make a Thanksgiving meal on Thursday. I thought a proper butcher would be my best chance of finding a turkey or some whole chickens, so I went to Lochaslish Butcher’s, just off the island in a town called Highland. They did not have any turkeys, but I bought two very nice sized chickens of the same weight, and some minced pork to add to my stuffing. I also grabbed a seasoning packet that he recommended for what is typically used at Christmas when stuffing is traditionally made here. I couldn’t find any already made bread cubes, or fried onion rings for green bean casserole, so I bought the necessary ingredients to make them from scratch. My next stop was an interesting shop that I’ve been passing by in Broadford, The Selkie Collective. Emma, one of the shop owners, was very helpful in assisting me find some herbs. We had a really nice chat, and she explained what a “Selkie” is, including the significance to Scottish culture in general. Specifically, why the women who started the collective named it Selkie. It was so nice to make a connection with another woman who shares the same passion for women’s issues. If you’re interested in learning more about them, follow the link to access their website https://www.theselkiecollective.com/. In the evening, I went to the hostel kitchen and started some prep work for the Thanksgiving meal. It was a lot of fun to hang out in the kitchen– there were a lot more people there, which meant more conversations to be had. There were conversations going on in German and English among Aussies, Scots, Brits and myself! Spending time in community and conversation with everyone at the hostel was a great way to end the day.

On Thursday morning I drove out to Point of Sleat to see the sunrise. Kat told me that Sleat is the best place to watch the sun rise, but cloud cover prevented it from being spectacular. Instead, I was met with a beautiful rainbow, which was also a welcome way to start the day. Afterwards, I drove back to the hostel to make some breakfast and hop on a zoom call with J&J about my upcoming Leiden visit. The plans are all set, and I’m so excited to visit the facility next month! I also zoomed into a Thanksgiving yoga class from my yoga studio in the states. It was so nice to see everyone in the studio and practice yoga together. I listened to Neil and Andrea lead the class, and it took me right back to being in the room with them. Every time they said “lift your arms up to the sky”, I thought to myself that I will remember the day I practiced yoga on Skye! After my zoom meetings, I hopped in my car and drove out to Plockton. The sun was shining when I left, then quickly changed to rain, and then right back to sunshine again. The microclimate was in full effect! Both Sleat and Pockton were beautiful in their own ways. Skye has such a varied landscape and scenery. I feel like I’ve only explored a small part of it and I will definitely keep it on my list of places to return to. The sun never completely sets in the summer, and Sleat had signs for kayaking in the summer as well. It is a magical and mystical place, indeed! After I had explored a little bit, I had to head back to the hostel to cook my Thanksgiving meal. It was a little challenging to cook such a large meal in someone else’s kitchen, but the kitchen was well equipped with everything I needed to make a successful meal. The hardest part was figuring out which pans fit all of the food, and timing the cooking of the sides properly. About an hour before our planned dinner time, everyone started coming back from their day activities. The kitchen was full of laughter and extra hands to help get everything ready. It really felt like being at home when everyone comes into the kitchen to help because they’re hungry and want the meal to be ready. Some of my hostel friends also made sides and desserts, so we really had a full table of food to feast on! The chickens came out well, and the sides were ready by 6:00. Perfect timing! The best part was having a meal together and hearing everyone say how much they appreciated sharing the holiday with me. I’m so glad that I didn’t try and ignore the day, but instead focused on sharing in Thanksgiving with those around me. I received many messages and phone calls from friends and family from the states, and I give my sincere thanks and gratitude to all of you who reached out. I ended the day with a video call from Mike and Brittany, which was the perfect way to end the day. It was a Thanksgiving that I will forever remember!

When I left the hostel on Friday morning at 7:15, it was still dark. I had a full day of travel ahead of me to get to my next destination, so I packed everything I owned into the car and drove towards Inverness. I had more than half a tank of gas when I left Skye and knew that I had to return it with a full tank, so I figured I’d get gas near my drop off point. As I was driving along, however, I noticed the gas gauge ticking down, and down, and down… but there were no gas stations in sight. Just as I was getting nervous if I’d even make it to Inverness, I saw a gas station in a little town. I audibly said “Thank you, God!” to the car, and stopped to fill up. Surprisingly, petrol (gasoline) hoses are green in the UK, whereas diesel is green in the US. Luckily, the diameter prevented me from using the wrong hose! I was quite thankful to have a full tank with the correct fuel. Two monumental milestones happened that made the drive truly special. It happened serendipitously as I was leaving Skye on the way to Inverness, which made it even more magical– I saw snow for the first time on my RTW trip and I reached 3,000 travel miles! The mountains were so magnificent and, thankfully, it wasn’t raining, so I pulled off the road into a parking area a few times to admire them. I took a few photos and spent a few moments to reflect on how far I’d come. The highlands are so beautiful and vast, and while standing near a mountain without another soul in sight, the wild and rugged nature of the area seeped into my pores. A new road warning sign popped up today– “feral goats, next 2 miles”. I didn’t see them, but I did see plenty of sheep, hairy coos, deer, and birds riding the thermals in the mountain passes. Once I got to Inverness, I stopped in a store and purchased gloves, a hat, and goggles, per the required gear list for my upcoming mountain adventures, and then said goodbye to my trusty car. I became spoiled by having a car, and after I dropped it off, I had to catch 2 buses with both backpacks, snacks for the evening and weekend, and the winter gear I just purchased. It was a long travel day, and by the time I got to my accommodations, Glenmore Lodge, at 4:00 p.m., I was tired. The lodge is the National Outdoor Training Centre for Scotland. Seeing snow on the mountains earlier in the day really got me excited for the winter mountaineering course I’ll be taking over the weekend. Although I’ve done some hiking in Scotland already, I thought it would be good to take a course and find what is available to do in the winter season in the national park. I also wanted to gain more local knowledge, especially about the mountains here. As an added bonus, I’m close to more Outlander sites, so those will get woven in as I come across them. I retired in the early evening, allowing my body to get as much rest as possible before a full day on the mountains!

Saturday proved to be an exciting yet challenging day! I enjoyed a nice breakfast at the lodge, then started the inside portion of my course. After only just over an hour of indoor instruction, we were ready to drive up to the hiking start point! Hiking up the mountain was rewarding, but it was a mix of emotions to get to the top. I really pushed my limits. At one point, I was tired and felt scared about my footing– it felt like a really steep angle, not quite unsafe, but way outside of my comfort zone. It was one of those moments when the only way out was through, and turning back would have been worse, so I pushed on and made it through the rough! I also wasn’t used to the leader being out in front and not waiting on me, so that added a touch of anxiety to my nerves. There were four of us in total: two other participants, the instructor Bill, and myself. I was at the back the whole time while the other two participants, Chris and Elaine (young locals to the area), hiked in the middle. Everyone was very supportive and not at all judgemental, which I was very thankful for. Bill and Elaine (who serves in the Royal Scots Navy), carried some of the things from my pack about halfway up when I said I was struggling. I didn’t think it was my pack that was the problem, but I agreed to lighten the load and appreciated the help. I felt really proud of myself for pushing through and keeping my wits about me. I kept thinking about how excited I was during my drive in to see the snow on the mountains, and at that time, I had no idea that in 24 hours I would be standing on the top of the mountain! A few minutes after we reached the first high point– the approach to Cairn Gorm– the clouds cleared and we saw the other mountain peaks. We were looking down at the clouds and saw the sun! I saw more sun during my hike than I have the whole time I’ve been in the UK! Maybe that’s motivation enough to climb the hills. It was amazing to feel like I was on top of the world– it was a huge accomplishment for me. We did take a few minutes for photos and to appreciate our surroundings, but staying still for too long was not wise, as we got cold quickly. Unfortunately for me, I didn’t have my phone close enough to my body to offer it any type of heat insulation, and it was so cold that my phone shut off! Thankfully, there was almost no wind chill, and the snow stopped about halfway up the mountain, so that offered a type of reprieve. We climbed the summit of Cairn Gorm and then descended, which wasn’t easy, either. It wasn’t as hard as going up, but with the added challenge of the sun dropping over the mountain, it made the surfaces slippier. I took my time after almost losing my footing on the rocks, so I ended up at the back again, but it was better to get to the bottom in the same condition that I started in rather than risk an injury. One thing is certain: after that hike, I won’t be going mountaineering on any of the slopes by myself! There are so many things to consider, plan for, and understand, and there is definitely security in numbers on slopes like these!

On Sunday morning, I spent a few hours in the classroom learning about avalanches and weather prep. It was a very informative class, and I was thankful to be learning from such an experienced mountaineer! After we learned in the classroom, we went outside to utilize our new skill set in real life. It was quite the challenge to put on crampons (the spiky apparatus that goes on the sole of a shoe to help with hiking in icy conditions) with bulky gloves. This simulated how to effectively put them on even if weather conditions were bad. I was so tempted to take my gloves off, but I didn’t, because I wanted to know that I could, in fact, tackle this feat if met with the real-life conditions that were being simulated. It took longer than I liked, but I did it! Realistically, the lesson was to either have thin glove liners if it wasn’t too cold, or to get practice doing these things in less than ideal conditions. Instructor Bill kept emphasizing that he was teaching us how to be better decision makers in the wilderness. Depending on the conditions, our risk profile, and experience, there wasn’t a one-answer solution on how to manage any given situation. If it was really slippery but not too cold, it might make sense to use no gloves to put the crampons on. On the other hand, if it was very cold, then exposed skin was a bigger hazard. Our practice was on grass and rocks, and using crampons on rocks and hills gave us experience on how to grip, the angle of the spikes, how big or small of steps to take, using the ice axe as a means to stabilize, and how to hold the ice axe in case we fell– sharp edge away if going down. All of these scenarios were good practice without the harsh weather elements we faced in the hike yesterday. After we practiced with crampons, our outdoor skills practice led us to walk into the woods together. First, we stayed on a path and practiced pacing to measure how far we walked– 62 paces per 100 meters. Then, Bill gave us a map with contour lines but missing elevation numbers and features. We went off the path to find features using the map and compass bearings, which I have some experience doing but not in unfamiliar places. It was a really useful exercise that I can apply anywhere I hike or travel. The two day course was a good mix of practical skills, outdoor practice, and classroom references. I’m not planning to just go out solo to bag a summit, but it did boost my confidence in any walking or hiking that I’ll be doing in Scotland or beyond. I was really impressed by the instructor’s knowledge, down to earth approach, and the opportunity he gave us to try things out in a safe environment. Overall, it was well worth the time. It was also interesting to meet very outdoorsy Scottish people. As much as it seems like the Highlands are not as extreme as, say, the Swiss Alps, the highlands present their own challenges. There are more incline angles (30-45 degrees) prone to avalanches coupled with more extreme weather variations, like multiple freeze thaw cycles during the winter. These conditions create unique challenges not found in more traditional alpine slopes. Scots take their weather seriously and have much pride in their abilities and the rugged land here. It feels very independent and somewhat ruthless. Bill even mentioned that quite a few deaths occurred of people he knew from mountaineering events like avalanches or ice climbing accidents. It’s nerve wracking, indeed, but I can see how the views and sense of accomplishment attract the people. Overall, the mountaineering weekend was a huge success and I enjoyed being able to remain very present in the moment, soaking up the guidance, environment, and new-found skills atop a mountain.

By the time Monday rolled around, I was on the move again! I ate breakfast at the lodge, then checked out of the room and went for a trek in the snow and rain mix to An Lochan Uaine. After I returned from my walk, I was completely soaked, so I utilized the drying room at the lodge while I waited for my taxi. I’m so impressed with the Glenmore lodge– they really do cater to outdoor people! I was able to store my bags after checkout, go for a hike, return and put my soaked clothes in the drying room, and use a fully equipped locker room to change and dry out. The drying room is really impressive– it’s a rather large room equipped with shelving and rods to dry out clothes, shoes, packs, and whatever else may need some time to dry off! Maybe that’s why only 58% of UK homes have a tumbler dryer like I’m used to in the USA. The mentality here is that you need an entire room to dry stuff out all of the time, not a compact machine! After my belongings had a chance to dry for a bit, I gathered my belongings and got into my taxi. The taxi dropped me off in Aviemore where I caught a bus to Inverness, reversing what I had done just a few days ago after dropping my rental car off at the airport. I walked a half mile to my hostel near the Ness River and Inverness Castle, which is being restored and won’t be reopened until 2025, got settled, and then explored the city. As I was walking around the small city, I could tell quickly that I’m going to like it in Inverness. There’s a secondhand bookstore, a lot of little cafes, plenty of walks nearby, and more Outlander sites to be found. I booked a free walking tour for Tuesday to get the full scoop on everything, including some musical events that I saw posted around the city. In the evening, I familiarized myself with the kitchen and facilities at the hostel, then settled into bed, excited to spend time for the next few days in another new city. I can already tell that Inverness agrees with me!

I found myself settling quite nicely into Inverness on Tuesday. My hostel is in an old house and is quite cozy (read: small). There’s a little fireplace in the common area and it has everything I need, but sharing such a small space with so many other people has proved challenging. The kitchen is very small, with a group of 3-4 people who take over cooking everything from scratch each night. It makes it difficult to cook my own food, and takes much longer than necessary to prepare meals when only three people can fit into the space at a time. The sleeping quarters are also– you guessed it– a bit cramped. There are six beds in the room, stacked 2 high, with a small walking space between them. Thankfully, each bunk has a privacy curtain, so the sleeping space itself offers some privacy, and there is space underneath each bed for personal belongings. It’s interesting to share a small space with so many different types of people! After breakfast, I started the day with a walking tour, which has always proven super helpful for me when I’m in a new city. During the tour, I learned that the original people were called Picts (painted people) back in 300 A.D. The tour guide, Elaine, was very knowledgeable about the history of Inverness, one of Europe’s fastest growing city, including the Jacobites and current developments. Inverness means “mouth of the River Ness”. The Coat of Arms includes an elephant and a giraffe, signifying that Inverness was trading worldwide. After the tour ended, I found some places that made me want to extend my time in Inverness– a yoga studio, a Victorian market decorated for Christmas, a lot of walking paths, and buses to some famous Outlander sites like Culloden Battlefield and Clava Cairns. It’s exciting to walk around a new town and find hidden gems and local attractions to add to my ever-changing agenda! Inverness is a good fit for me, and although I have a rough schedule to follow, I think I’ll stay just a bit longer.

Throughout this past week, I’ve had such a varied yet amazing time in Scotland. From celebrating Thanksgiving on Skye– which filled my heart to share the holiday with new friends– to climbing my first Munro (Mt Cairn Gorm) that pushed me way beyond my comfort zone, to finding the cozy town of Inverness to settle into, each unique experience has created unforgettable memories that I will hold on to forever. The people in Scotland have been so warm and friendly– quite the opposite of the cold and dreary weather and short days– and they have etched a special place in my heart. Until next time, dear friends: stay safe, stay healthy, and always remember to make space for what brings you joy.

No synonym for God is so perfect as Beauty.
Whether as seen carving the lines of the mountains with glaciers,
or gathering matter into stars,
or planning the movements of water,
or gardening –
still all is Beauty!
-John Muir