RTW ’23: Week 11

My first full week in Scotland certainly did not disappoint! At the beginning of the week, I wasn’t quite sure where I was headed. There were a few options on the table, so I started in Glasgow to get my bearings and planned from there. Thankfully, the week unfolded beautifully, and I was able to view a lot more of Scotland than I ever thought possible. I spent a lot of time outdoors surrounded by stunning landscapes and some of nature’s most beautiful creatures. I found quite a few hiking trails to explore, and it felt great to get productive walking miles underneath my feet in such a majestic place! There were many moments where I felt as though I stepped back in time– standing beside castles, traveling quiet trails with no modern amenities in sight, viewing turf house replicas in the middle of mountains, and listening to the songs from the wind. It was truly spectacular, and my heart was consistently filled with gratitude and awe.

Wednesday was my first full day in Glasgow, so I started it off with a walking tour to get acquainted with my first Scottish city. The meeting point was George’s Square, which was right next to my hotel. The square appeared very Victorian with a lot of 18th century statues of prominent men from that era. A large Christmas tree was in the square, surrounded by fences and a crane– all part of preparing for the Christmas tree lighting this coming weekend. Ian, the tour guide, gave us a good overview of the history and landmarks in Glasgow. There were some similarities in Scotland to Liverpool. For example, both cities profited from African slave trade and were prominent in the Industrial Revolution. Queen Square boasts an important collection of statues and monuments, including those dedicated to Robert Burns, James Watt, Sir Robert Peel, and Sir Walter Scott. In 2011, the Lonely Planet Guide included the Duke of Wellington statue in its list of the “top 10 most bizarre monuments on earth” (see photo below). We also saw some street art with a unicorn! In Scotland, the unicorn stands on the left of the Royal Coat of Arms, whilst in England, that is where the lion is found. The unicorn is the national animal of Scotland. Legend has it that only a king could overpower and command a unicorn. If you look closely at the Royal Coats of Arms (image below), you will see that the unicorn wears chains around its neck, which means it has been brought under the command of the monarch. It’s a very interesting take on such a magical creature! After the walking tour, I walked around the city on my own for a bit, and then retired to my hotel room where I worked on plans for the rest of my time in Scotland. My hotel is right in the heart of the city so I have immediate access to the subway, Queen Street train station and Buchanan bus station, where I arrived last evening. Being so close to all of the transportation hubs will be very convenient once I figure out my plan, which hasn’t fully come together yet. Therefore, I decided to stay for one more night than I had originally planned to work out the rest of my time in Scotland. I’m not sure if it’s the dreary, dark, and damp weather, or the very formal statues in the squares, or if it’s something else entirely, but I’m not in love with Glasgow. The city feels like a good starting point for my Scotland adventure, but it’s not a place I’m wild about. It’s more like a means to an end type of city. In the evening, Corrine and I had a nice extended phone call to catch up on life and do some brainstorming for the blog. Our collaboration has been such a blessing to me, and I am excited to see where the future of the blog is headed!

After speaking with Corrine the night prior, I felt energized on Thursday, ready to get my Scotland plan sorted. I’m excited to share that I’ll be renting a car for a week (inspired by my friend Gena’s Scotland travel spreadsheet) and doing a self-driving Outlander tour! I watched the series faithfully a few years back, and Corrine is an avid fan of the series and the novels that the show is based off of, so I am very excited to see the locations, walk on the same grounds, and fully immerse myself into the rich drama. I didn’t want to waste any time, so I started the Outlander tour on Thursday in Kelvingrove Park. The park is an easy walk from the Hillhead subway stop, so it was easy to get there on foot. I had wanted to try the subway after the walking tour guide said that the locals call the subway “clockwork orange” because of the orange subway cars. I bought a day ticket and found my stop on the very simple and easy to follow map. There were only two lines, one clockwise around the city, the other counterclockwise around the city. It was easily the cutest, simplest subway I’ve ever seen! Walking up from the subway brought me into the heart of the University of Glasgow with a lot of students rushing about. I loved the energy of being on a vibrant collegiate campus! The university has been here since 1451, and seeing the ancient buildings made me feel like I’d stepped back in time myself. The Outlander magic began already! The weather started out sunny with some clouds as I found Kelvingrove Park and looked for one of the Outlander scenes I’d found on the self-guided tour list. One of Glasgow’s locations used to represent Boston, Kelvingrove Park, can be seen in the Outlander season 3 episode “Surrender”. It was in this park that Claire pushed Brianna in her pram over the bridge, passing a man who was playing the bagpipes. The irony wasn’t lost on me that I had traveled to Scotland, and yet the location that I was looking for was depicting Boston, loosely where my US home is! I found the bridge, took a selfie, and then enjoyed a walk around the park. I got lunch near the university, then hopped back on the subway to head back to my hotel. I spent the evening in my cozy hotel room, which featured a very nicely heated bathroom with a deep soaking tub. Yesterday, I stopped at a Lush cosmetics store and treated myself to a bath-bomb, and my next accommodation very well may be a hostel or a room without a tub, so I decided to use my bath-bomb and make good use of the hotel luxury while I had it! A hot bath, coupled with a “cuppa tea”, was the perfect end to my last day in Glasgow.

Friday proved to be a very fruitful and adventure filled day! On Thursday night, I researched more information about Isabelle Elder and found out that there is an Elder Park near Glasgow, so I made that the first stop of the day after getting the rental car. The park was a little run down, but it was still cool to see the statues and read about John Elder. I’m guessing that John and Isabelle weren’t direct ancestors of mine because my linage on my dad’s side came to America before the revolution (or uprising, as the Brits still refer to our independence as!). But, I do love the connection in name, and Isabelle’s passion for women’s education really resonates with me. It’s one more affirmation that my intention to raise awareness on women’s issues is, truly, meant to be. The rest of my stops throughout the day were focused on the Outlander series locations in the area. Before leaving Glasgow, I took another picture of George Square. In Season 1, the historic George Square was turned into a 1940’s set to film Frank’s spontaneous proposal to Claire. Today, the square was getting extensively decorated for the holidays, so my picture had to be a closeup. Use your imagination to place 1940’s cars in the background, and you’re right there in the scene! The next stop was to Doune Castle, known as Castle Leoch in Outlander. It was breathtakingly beautiful, albeit very chilly inside the castle walls. Back in its day, there would have been roaring fires in the fireplaces, but now they lay empty. Fun fact: Doune Castle was also a filming spot for Monty Python! After I left the castle, I made my way to Deanston Distillery, the setting in Season 2 for Jamie’s cousin, Jared, and his wine warehouse at the docks of Le Havre. A nice young man working there told me that I had just missed the last guided tour of the day. I confessed that I was really just there for the Outlander nostalgia, and he replied “Right! We get that a lot. I can show you the wine barrels in the store room for free, if you want?” I happily accepted and followed him into a very dark and musty warehouse, which originally was a cotton factory. He took me to the barrels with the logo from the French wine in Outlander where I took a photo, and while doing so, I noticed how cool the curved ceiling was. I mentioned it to him, and he told me it was from the cotton factory days because when it was processed, they had to keep the room at a high temperature for the material to stay pliable. When the roof was a “normal” shape, water would condense on the ceiling and drop down onto the fabric, which was problematic. So, they curved the ceiling so that the water would run down the sides and drop into the processing area. It was a really cool back story and I was glad I asked about it! I had one more Outlander stop planned, but by the time I left the distillery it was getting dark, and I still had a two hour drive to get to my accommodations for the night in Oban, so I decided to head to my hotel instead. The drive was long and windy, and getting used to driving on the opposite side of the road proved challenging. I was very thankful once I got to my room and could rest for the night!

My self guided Outlander tour continued on Saturday. After I checked out of my hotel in the morning, I walked to the Oban town center and enjoyed a quick breakfast at Costa overlooking the water. With a full belly– and an even fuller itinerary– I hopped into my rental car and started driving towards Glencoe. I knew that driving on the other side of the road would be a challenge, but navigating the windy roads in the rain added a new level of difficulty. There were a lot of warning signs along the way– “falling rocks”, “cars in the middle of the road”, “s curve”, “deer crossing”. It was a lot to contend with in addition to the occasional big trucks passing in the opposite direction! I kept reminding myself that the difficult drive was a necessary challenge in order to see panoramic views of Scotland! Once I arrived, I stopped at the visitor center to get some information from a local source and mapped out my hikes for the day: turf house, An Torr, and Kingshouse Inn where the West Highland Way trail begins. Hiking was my favorite part of the day, even in the rain! I had spent so much time in the UK before starting the Outlander tour, so I was fully prepared for time spent outdoors in the rain. I now have my layers and waterproofs dialed in, ensuring I stay dry and warm despite the constant rainfall. I actually teared up– tears of joy, of course– once I got out of the car and saw the mountains around me. It was what I had been craving, and I was finally there! I saw a few other suited-up brave hikers on the trails as well. I even saw a couple with a baby carefully placed in a fully outfitted baby backpack with a rain cover. I did a loop trail and kept an eye on my pace to make sure I’d get back to my car before 4 p.m., as a person at the visitor center said that’s the time it will be dark. I had a headlamp and my hiking essentials packed with me just in case, but I wasn’t going to take any chances at getting stuck in the dark on the unknown trails of Scotland. I felt grateful that I’m an experienced hiker and know my limitations– it felt so wild and remote out in the valley amongst the mountains. It was my soul’s reward for tackling all the hairpin turn driving I did to get there. At Glencoe, there was a replica turf house that was very well made, and a welcomed dry respite along the trail (see video below). I could really imagine Clan MacDonald living there in the 1600s. A key moment in my hike was when I saw a large buck at the Kingshouse Inn when I stopped for a hot coffee, coupled with finding the West Highland Way trail marker. It made me so happy! It was a good thing that the weather was so bad, or I would have wanted to walk farther on the trail, tempting my fate with the dark.

Sunday was a bit of a scramble in the morning, but it actually turned out to be for the best! I didn’t have a room booked anywhere for Sunday, so I was considering just staying at the same hotel I was already in. When I checked with them last night, they had availability, but when I went in the morning to extend my stay for another night, they were fully booked! I really wanted a lazy day to catch up on things, but when they didn’t have room, I had to be on the move. I’ve been using booking.com to find my hotel accommodations, but there wasn’t anything available locally, so I switched gears and started looking at Hostelworld. There, I found Skye Basecamp, which had amazing reviews and a bed that cost less than £30, so I decided to drive to Skye! The weather was so much better than yesterday which made the drive a lot easier. Sunday marked my third day driving in the UK so it started feeling more normal. I had some anxiety about driving on the opposite side of the road– my brain kept feeling uneasy, that “something is wrong” feeling that happens when your brain is used to something being one way your entire life, but I persevered nonetheless! I had extra time to get to my destination, so I stopped a few times along the way in parking spots with views and enjoyed seeing the magnificent vistas stretched out in front of me. If there was a trail available where I stopped, I took the opportunity to walk it. It definitely helped break up the long driving day! I was also introduced to some new road signs along the way. The red and white triangular signs warned of cross winds on bridges (signified by a wind sock shape), blind summits (lots of hair pin turns), and hidden dips (though I never quite figured out what the image was supposed to be). I received a beautiful reward when I crossed the bridge onto the Isle of Skye: the sun broke through the clouds, highlighting the gorgeous views as they unfolded in front of me. It was so bright that I had to use my car’s visor! Unfortunately, my sunglasses had been packed away for days because of the overcast weather. I easily found my hostel, and loved it at first sight. I was the only person in a 4-bed room, and there is a fully equipped kitchen and lounge area available for use. The owner, Kay, offered me a cuppa tea and showed me where everything was and gave me recommendations for hiking nearby. She even told me that there are dinosaur footprints on some of the beaches at low tide! There is so much waiting for me to explore in Skye, but after a long day of last minute planning and driving, I ended the evening settling in to my hostel and catching up with my friend, Karen, on the phone.

On Monday, I started the day by making breakfast at the hostel. Skye Basecamp, my hostel, was the perfect find– there’s plenty of space to hang out inside, the kitchen is plentiful with all of the necessities, and the owner, Kat, is very present, accommodating, and wonderful to chat with. As more people arrived at the hostel, Kat asked me if I wanted roommates or if I would prefer the room to myself. I was enjoying the serenity of having my own space, so she graciously kept my room a “single” for the time being. After breakfast, and a nice chat with Kat, I was ready for the day. I looked which way the clouds were moving– southernly, from the north, with a few blue sky patches far north and east. So, I decided to drive north and get past the incoming rain, which meant that I was going directly towards the storm and it was going to get worse before it got better. I packed some snacks and a water bottle along with all of my waterproof clothes, prepared for a day on the road. I dubbed the adventure “car hiking”! The entire Isle is stunning. Magnificent, even. Every turn is more beautiful than the last! Per Kat’s advice, I drove in one direction and stopped if there was something to admire. After pulling into a parking spot, I’d look for a trail and walk in the direction of whatever caught my eye: a waterfall, a mountain, or just a good photo spot. If it started to rain, I’d get back in the car to warm up and drive on to the next place. It rained buckets at my first stop, but I didn’t really mind. I was ready, and my body followed Mother Nature’s example and I released some cleansing tears of my own at the waterfall. It was very moving– I really felt connected to nature, and so loved by the place around me. The “oneness” that is felt in places like these is truly special, and my body yearned for that type of connection again. I felt really comfortable driving and enjoyed the serenade of the Outlander soundtrack through the sound system. Even while driving in a modern car, it felt timeless. I got ahead of the storm, so I decided to go for the iconic hike on the Isle, Old Man of Storr. Once I arrived, I was eager to hike up and see the views. There was a very strong head wind, which proved to be quite physically challenging, but I took my time and soaked up the magnificent scenery around me. As I made my way up, I kept thinking about how easy it would be to go back down. But, as fate would have it, by the time the downward descent came, a rain squall came through. It made the rocks wet and slick, and the accompanying wind pushed me down the mountainside. It was amazing to see the juxtaposition of the various microclimates in such a short period of time! I felt very emotional throughout the day, especially in the morning as I drove along and saw just how stunning everything is. It has a very ancient, grounded sense, and at one point, I heard sounds that weren’t from a human or an animal. It was the wind, but it resonated like a spiritual spiral or horn making the wind noises. I heard it again when I passed through a cattle gate, so, logically, it must be the wind dancing around the gate… but who really knows?

Tuesday was another full day of car hiking! I drove to the south part of the Isle on a single track road with periodic passing places, which are really just extra places to pull off of the road. It was not on Google as a driving option, but Kat, the hostel owner, said it was her favorite part of the Isle where the locals go during the summer months. So, I took her advice and enjoyed the adventure. The single track road means drivers are essentially playing “chicken” when a car is coming in the opposite direction, which was less than ideal for me. Thankfully, there weren’t many cars, and I liked not having to think much about which side of the road to drive on! The landscape throughout the day was spectacular– the vastness and wilderness literally took my breath away. I stopped along the way, the same as yesterday, to stretch my legs, snap pictures of sheep and hairy coos, and bask in the presence of waterfalls and mountains. Seeing the peak of The Cuillin Mountain was my goal for the day, but the cloud cover prevented me from seeing all of her majesty. The drive there, however, was an adventure in its own right, so it all worked out anyway. There were road signs that I saw on previous days but hadn’t experienced them. That all changed on Tuesday! Thanks to the drive, I know now what “blind summit” and “hidden dip” mean. The road would turn 90 degrees, and it felt like I could go right over the edge. Blind Summit. Then, the dips on the downhill prevented me from seeing what was coming over the next hill, even the possibility of an oncoming car. Hidden dip. It sounds scary, but the scenery just pulled me in and I had to see all of it! The longest hike of the day was on a John Muir trail that led up to a waterfall. It wasn’t as strenuous as prior hikes, but the wild open spaces coupled with the sea in the background made it feel incredibly special to me. Each corner of the island has its own story to tell, and I want to hear them all. There’s an energy and vibration that is palpable. One of the trail signs mentioned that compasses may not work due to the concentration of carbon and volcanic masses, and it was reassuring to have a scientific explanation for what I was feeling within my body. After I was done exploring, I went back to my hostel to make myself some dinner in the shared kitchen. Cooking and eating in a shared space reminded me of the community that is felt during the Thanksgiving holiday with family and friends back home congregated around the table. I was going to ignore the holiday altogether, since I’m not in the states where it’s celebrated, but the feeling of togetherness made me want to embrace the holiday the best way I could. So, I decided that I’ll be staying in this hostel through Thursday, where there is a fully equipped kitchen, and cook a meal as close to Thanksgiving fare as the local food market will provide. After all, there is much to be thankful for! While I was in the kitchen, I met a guy from Argentina who’s living in France but loves Scotland. We got to chatting, and he thought that I was Irish or Scottish! It felt really good to know that I fit right in with my roots. I took a moment to reflect on how traveling in the manner that I am affects the body, mind and soul, and how the lives of our ancestors affect us in ways that we don’t always see or understand. It was in that moment that it dawned on me: I have found another home.

My time on Skye has felt like a continual journey to find my roots. I’m 17% Scottish on my father’s side according to Ancestry. I don’t have living relatives there that I know of, but it’s something deeper that connects me to this place. It feels ancient, way earlier than my family tree. I used to dream that I could fly, and many times in my life, I’ve had those dejavu feelings that I was a bird. When I was flying down the one way roads, I had that feeling again. I felt like I could just soar away. My body stayed grounded, eyes focused on the road… but my spirit? My spirit was connected to the sea and sky. Until next time, dear friends: stay safe, stay healthy, and always remember to make space for what brings you joy.

Sing me a song of a lass that is gone
Say, could that lass be I?
Merry of soul she sailed on a day
Over the sea to Skye
-The Skye Boat Song, Outlander