RTW ’24: Transitioning in Argentina

Argentina proved to be a good choice to spend time in. As the days passed, I felt more comfortable and enjoyed settling into a new, slower routine. On Monday, I ventured to Western Union to get some Argentinian pesos. There are three exchange rates at this time in Argentina due to the high inflation: the official rate at banks and government offices, the median exchange rate (MEP, used for credit card transactions), and the “blue dollar” rate at money exchange offices such as Western Union. When I exchanged my money, the rate was 25% more variable than the office rate. When inflation was at its highest in January of 2024, the blue rate was 2 times as much! Once I had cash on hand, a few more activities opened up to me, including a walking tour and riding a cable car up to a great view of the city. The view from San Bernardo made me realize how big the city is. It has a population of almost 3/4 of a million people. It was peaceful and quiet at the top, so I walked around enjoying the view and serenity at the man made waterfalls! I ended the day with a walking tour that was very informative. It was a lot of fun to chat with fellow visitors.

The next morning, I ate breakfast at my AirBNB and then spent some time organizing my belongings in preparation for my overnight bus to a new Argentinian city. Afterwards, I walked around Salta and enjoyed lunch at a small local cafe, recommended by the tour guide the prior day. I ordered carne’s potato empanadas and limonade, and it was delicious! Each city has their own variety of both items, and I love trying them along the way. The limonade is very sour, but sugar is always on the table to add to your own preferred sweetness. Empanadas are smaller than in other places I’ve tried, but both items were delicious. I happened to see some people from the walking tour also enjoying lunch there– I love how in a few short days of being in a place, I can feel at home and see familiar faces. Staying at an AirBNB gave me solo time, which I really enjoy, but it’s also nice to socialize throughout the day. Slowly but surely, I’ve been feeling myself turning from a traveling backpacker on the go, driven to get around the world, into something different. I’m not quite sure what to call it… maybe a retired woman finding her new place in the world? Whatever the new title is, I’m trying to settle into it and welcome a new season of life.

Before departing from Salta, I decided to stop into the MAAM, Museum of High Altitude Archaeology. It was a little reminiscent of Bolivia and human sacrifice, which was certainly a little off-putting at first, but I decided to explore it regardless. The exhibit houses the mummified bodies of two children and a young woman from the Inca period, offered to the gods in a Capacocha ceremony on the Llullaillaco volcano at the border between Argentina and Chile. The way the museum presented the information, which was dignified, scientific and thoughtful, gave me some reassurance to stick with it and visit the whole exhibit. The idea of sacrificing children and women for any reason at any point in history is repulsive to me, but my love of learning and wanting to understand history pushed me onward. No pictures were allowed, so I copied a picture from a website. Seeing how well-preserved the mummies were was in, some way, redeeming. They looked peaceful and held in high regard. My heart can’t hold the idea of sacrificing the life of a person, especially without their consent, for too long… but now I do have more of an understanding of the Inca culture and their beliefs. Human history has taken so many paths to get us to today. I’m so grateful, and feel very privileged, to live in this day and age.

While I waited for the bus, I took a few minutes to look up some information on the Silver Route that was mentioned by my tour guide the day before. The Silver Route was a significant trade route of the Spanish Empire in South America. Initially, the route went from the Potosi region (today’s Bolivia) to Lima. Then, in the late 1700’s, the Spanish changed the direction to end in Buenos Aires. This direction shift was due to an administrative change in the Spanish governance of the region, which required silver from the Potosi region to pass through Buenos Aires. As it turns out, the route that I’m taking in South America lines up with both of these routes. I started in Lima, and will finish in Buenos Aires. My intention of slow travel has given me so many opportunities to learn about the history of a region based on how people have been traveling for hundreds of thousands of years, and I love it! I feel so good when slow travel opens my eyes to a deeper understanding of my RTW journey.

After a very long overnight bus ride, I finally arrived in Cordoba, the second largest city in Argentina with a population of about 1.6 million. The vibe reminded me of Manhattan, which I love, and made me feel right at home. I had a quick breakfast at the bus terminal and then got an Uber to my AirBNB. The Uber car was reminiscent of a clown-sized car with no trunk. Once I got both of my bags in the back seat, I hopped in, and the driver explained to me (through Google translate) that I needed to sit in the front seat. I reluctantly got out and walked to the front seat passengers side only to immediately panic– I couldn’t open the front door! I immediately thought to myself “Oh my God! He’s going to drive off with my bags!” So, I did what any reasonable person would do, and started to pound on the window. After a brief moment of panic, I figured out how to open the passenger door and climbed in, very much still on guard. The driver, Julian, continued using Google translate on his phone while driving through hectic traffic. He explained that Uber is illegal in Cordoba which is why I had to move to the front. He seemed decent, and I kept close track on my app that we were following the right route, but I was definitely a little nervous. The ride ended at my AirBNB without any issue, thankfully. I was in a big city and needed to keep my street-smarts about me. The apartment building had two locked gates and an elevator. I liked it right away! It had a washing machine, outdoor patio, indoor and outdoor plants, and the owner had souvenirs from his travels in the US. I felt very much at home and it could have easily been a NYC apartment. I settled in and then decided to go for a walk to find groceries and check out my new neighborhood. I happened upon a university campus, the National University of Cordoba. Established in 1613, it’s one of the oldest and most prestigious universities in Latin America. The buildings were declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 2000. I always love being around college campuses when I visit a city. I enjoy the energy and diversity that a college campus brings, plus there’s usually good public transportation, cheap varied food and free activities. On Wednesday, there was also a demonstration happening on campus. I cautiously walked around, trying to understand the banners that were written in Spanish. Everyone seemed peaceful and organized, and the few police officers that were present appeared to be relaxed. It appeared to be about keeping education public or free. After looking it up later, I found it was about university salaries. It makes sense– inflation is a big issue in Argentina and demonstrating about wages definitely checks. After a quick, cheap lunch, I found a grocery store and headed back to my apartment. Overall, it was a good first day in Cordoba!

I spent the rest of the week, and much of the following week, exploring my city, settling in to new routines, and figuring out some logistics of daily life in Cordoba. I found a mall nearby within walking distance, so I started there. I had a lot of fun browsing the mall and shopping for a new pair of jeans. The last time I wore jeans was in Bilbao, Spain. I sent those jeans back home a long time ago! As I wind down the days on backpacking through hiking trails and transition to spending more time in cities, I’m craving a good pair of jeans. I found a pair I liked, but before I settled on them, I decided that I’ll continue to browse for a day or two. It’s fun to shop and have time as a city girl! Finding a good pair of jeans might seem silly– mundane even. But, they are really impractical for traveling because they are so bulky and heavy and take forever to dry without a machine dryer. However, I’m so comfortable in a pair of jeans and they really do go with anything. They can be dressed up or dressed down, and since I’m spending my time in the city, I’m needing that staple item. Afterwards, I signed up at the Ergo gym near my apartment. It was nice to get a workout in at a reasonable weekly rate!

As I usually do in a new place, I found a walking tour. I was the only one who ended up showing up for it so it turned into a private tour! Alfonso, the tour guide, is a university student doing tours on the side. His heritage is Italian; his great grandfather arrived in the early 1900’s. The tour was a nice mix of local food, architecture, and practical tips. I appreciated being introduced to some new neighborhoods and landmarks, and learning about the history of the area from the indigenous people and Spanish colonizers. We finished the tour at a Gothic cathedral built by an Italian architect. Argentina has so many cultures and influences fused together! After the tour, I liked Cordoba even more. It got me thinking that I should extend my stay for an additional week. The nice thing about keeping my plans fluid is being able to extend my stay If I like a particular place. I researched a few recommended day trips from the tour and found some cool mountain towns that are only a public bus ride away!

Instead of doing a lot of touristy activities and filling my days with must-sees, I spent my days settling into a routine and living as a resident of Cordoba, not a traveler just passing through. I’ve really felt the call to shift my mindset from being motivated to see what’s around the next corner to one of being okay with the same routine and unpacking ALL of my belongings. At first it really felt odd to me. I’m always the one who can’t wait to see the next destination or the next view around the bend on a hiking trail. It certainly helped that I really like the vibe in Cordoba and the AirBNB apartment I was staying at. The apartment and the city felt very much like Manhattan, which I associate with many happy memories. So, I unpacked, stocked up on groceries, and settled in. I had phone conversations with friends and family from home. I watched some US news channels, and oddly enough, even appreciated US commercials! It felt good to reconnect to the life that I’ll be reentering to in just a few short weeks. I know, it’s sad to realize that my RTW journey, and these blog posts, are nearing their end. But don’t despair. I have a few more exciting activities planned! We’re not done yet!

During one of my walks, I stumbled across a memorial for women who were victims of terrorism by the state about 45 years ago. I do my best to be on the lookout for reminders that the passion and purpose for this journey is to highlight women’s issues and empowerment, and this was a stark reminder of that passion. These events happened while I was alive, not in the distant past. I feel so grateful to continue finding examples of women’s empowerment, but, sadly, these women’s lives were taken too early. The encouraging finding for me is that these women were not forgotten and can be an inspiration to everyone today. I was intrigued to learn more about this era and ended up going down an internet rabbit hole that led to finding a map showing women leaders of the state over time. Argentina had a woman president at the time that the government was overthrown. President Isabel Peron was the widow of the previous president who had died in office. This is the most common way that women had previously become head of state.

On another day, I was able to take a tour of a gothic church, Iglesia del Sagrado Corazon de Jesus, that I learned about on my initial walking tour. It was fitting since its architect, Augusto Cesar Ferrari, was Italian. I loved all of the symbolism and details. The English name is the Church of the Sacred Heart of Jesus. One of the most striking symbols of the building is that there are two towers. There is a spire on the right that points up towards the heavens, representing spirituality and ascension to the heavens. The left tower has a flat top and is much lower, representing humanity. We strive so far in our lifetime but are limited. At first it looks like a lot of cathedrals I’ve seen on my travels that are asymmetric due to bombings or running out of money. But this one was intentional, and I loved it. The colors of the building come from different stones and the pillars have several colors and shapes and twists. The pillars next to the statues of Jesus and the saints are smooth and large. The remaining pillars have different colors and shapes and are thinner. They represent the congregation entering the church. Lastly, there are many animals represented since it was a Franciscan order. I learned how gargoyles got their name, too! The church has gargoyles, too– their practical function was to act as gutters, so the water flowing out sounds like gargling and, of course, they protect the church!

By staying in one place for a few weeks, I’ve been able to focus on self-care, which includes my dental health. I found a dentist office with English speaking staff and made an appointment to get my teeth cleaned. I’ve had periodontal disease for years, and at home, I received four cleanings per year. My home hygienist, Terri, has become a friend over the years. She gave me a pep talk before I left, including lending me a set of instruments to provide local providers if needed. During my travels, I’ve stayed diligent with my daily home care, but I was definitely overdue for a proper cleaning. I have a lot of anxiety visiting a new dental office, so after making the appointment through Whats App, I visited the office to check out the space and confirm that the staff spoke English. During my pre-appointment, I spoke with Dr. Valeria and confirmed that she spoke English. During one of our chats, I mentioned my hygienist from home. Dr. Valeria informed me that dentists do the cleanings in Argentina, not hygienists, though they do have dental assistants. She also told me that the standard protocol for cleaning was ultrasonic, not hand instruments. Even with all of the prep work, and knowing exactly what to expect, I was still nervous walking into the office. However, Dr. Valeria was very kind and skillfully cleaned my teeth, and I walked out with a healthy mouth, feeling good that I’d taken care of myself. I celebrated by treating myself to a coffee and red velvet cake from Starbucks… then brushed and flossed when I got home!

Money transactions are somewhat complicated for foreigners in any new country, and Argentina is definitely no exception. There are multiple ways to pay– cash, credit, debit or even ebanking– but navigating the different options can be tricky, especially given Argentina’s high inflation rate. To add another layer of frustration, Argentina’s highest cash note is 2,000, which is roughly only 2 USD, and ATM’s only dispense about 30 USD at a time and charge at least a 5 USD fee. So, the best way to get cash is from Western Union kiosks, which I was successful at in Salta. However, the protocols for these kiosks differ at each location, so there’s a learning curve. All of them require a passport for ID, but some require that you bring a copy of your passport, which is usually an additional charge. Further, kiosks close when they run out of cash, or they only dispense small amounts to prevent them from running out of cash. The staff only speak Spanish, which makes perfect sense (and provides me with an opportunity to practice my Spanish), but between all of the variables I can get easily confused in the conversation, which is exactly what happened when I tried to get cash before purchasing my bust ticket at a Western Union on Tuesday. I had planned to buy my ticket for Wednesday’s excursion, but the plan got derailed. Google translate helped, but I still don’t know what the issue was, just that I had to walk to the mall where the kiosk had money and would take my passport for ID. There is always a security person at the kiosk, which I definitely appreciate. During my conversations with the woman at the bus station, the security guard came over and asked the clerk something. Through his body language and the way he looked at me, I sensed he was asking if the situation needed his attention. I quickly smiled and realized the 25 minute walk to the mall was my best course of action, even though it was getting close to sunset. Because of my experience getting robbed in Bolivia, I’m very cautious about how much money to carry on my person or leave in my AirBNB. Add to that the additional layer of caution in walking around after dark and the juggling act to know when, where, and how to obtain cash. Cordoba is rated as a relatively safe city, and I have noticed families and women (young and old) walking alone the few times I’ve walked home after sunset, which is a promising sign that I look out for to determine the level of safety. Generally, these days, I’m just more vigilant and tend to not take unnecessary risks. After assessing the situation and feeling comfortable, I walked to the Western Union, got my cash, and headed back to the AirBNB.

After more than a week of city life, I was ready to take a day trip to the Sierras and reconnect with nature. Alfonso, my walking tour guide from earlier in my arrival to Cordoba, had provided several bus day trip recommendations to nearby towns. I picked La Cumbrecita (little summit), which was his favorite. Getting there required taking two public buses. With cash in hand from the night prior, I bought my ticket directly from the driver. I was reminded of all of my daily public bus trips in Lima. The first stop was Villa General Belgrano, which is a German town that was preparing for their Octoberfest. I was only one hour outside of Cordoba and I felt like I’d traveled much further! The next bus ride took another hour to get to my destination. La Cumbrecita was founded in 1934 when a German Swiss family bought 500 hectares (2 square miles) of land. Within ten years, it became a pedestrian only town and welcomed tourists. I felt like I’d been transported to the Swiss Alps! It was fun to explore a new place and wander around. The weather was misty and cool, which made hiking on the trail up to the waterfall a treat for all of my senses. Nature, truly, is my home, and it felt good to reconnect with her in a new place. The elevation was only 1300 meters (roughly 4,000 ft), so the climb felt easy compared to some of the other elevations I’ve endured. Those high elevation days certainly paid off! I lingered at the trail’s end, soaked up the fall’s mist, and took note of the different plants and trees while listening to the birds, feeling the moist earth beneath me. I had worked up an appetite, so I headed back down to the town for a hearty German lunch of veal cutlet and potato salad. Then, I wandered around the shops, had an ice cream, and waited for the last bus back to the city. It was the perfect quick escape from the city! When I got back to my AirBNB apartment, I felt like I was returning home. I’m so grateful that I can feel at home wherever my travels take me!

On Thursday, I had to move AirBNB’s because my initial rental didn’t have availability to extend my stay. When I was packing up, I realized just how settled in I’d become. It sort of felt like moving day, not just my quick pack up and go that I’d become accustomed to. With everything in my big and small backpacks, I walked the three blocks to meet my new landlord. The apartment was new to AirBNB with no reviews, but the pictures looked good and I had walked by the building before booking. Camila, my new landlord, greeted me with an Argentinian quick hug and peck on the check, then quickly apologized saying “That’s the Argentina ‘hi!'” I replied with “no problemo!”, and felt welcomed. She is a college student who had lived in her aunt’s apartment before recently moving in with her boyfriend. We had a nice chat, and her English was great as she showed me everything in the apartment. I was glad that I had taken a chance and was supporting a female college student and her aunt with my rental. Supporting women’s empowerment takes many forms when you trust the universe! It was my third AirBNB rental in Argentina, and there are a few amenities that I’ve found in all of them that are commonplace in Argentina. For example, all private bathrooms have bidets, a carryover from all of the European immigrants. The apartment key was old fashioned, with a left and right side, and took two turns to lock. The kitchens come equipped with cooking oil, a gas oven and stove, and a Yerba mate set. Mate, a caffeine herbal infusion, is common throughout South America. What I’ve noticed in Argentina is the cup and straw they use to drink it, and that I commonly see people walking around holding their mate mug and straw. It reminds me of people at home, walking around with their take-out coffees. The cup is small and gourd shaped, as the original ones were actually made from gourds! The stainless steel straw acts as a sieve since the tea is loose in the mug. Drinking mate is as much a social thing as it is tradition. When Camila showed me the kitchen, she asked if I liked mate. I said yes, with sugar. It is an acquired taste, similar to coffee. The tea by itself tastes bitter to me, but I’m giving it a fair try since all of my apartments have a tea set with various brands of mate. I really like the straw design, but the loose tea makes it messy to clean up. I do love being immersed in the local customs, and maybe by the time I leave Argentina I’ll get a tea set to take home!

On Saturday morning, there was a planned power outage. It reminded me of all of the times it has happened over the course of my travels. By now, it’s no big deal, especially since Camila let me know beforehand. On the plus side, it only lasted for a few hours. It was building maintenance, not from the electrical company. It’s funny how experiencing a power outage now– relatively unbothered– can make me think back to my days in Dar when the power going out was a big deal. There, it’s more systemic and a symptom of a bigger root cause, but it’s still a reminder of how much I’ve learned to go with the flow. FInding common threads, big and small, amongst all of the places I’ve traveled has been really cool!

Sunday, October 20th, marked Mother’s Day in Argentina. Argentine mothers are unique in many ways. They are addressees of many famous tango pieces, and Mother’s Day is celebrated way apart from all of the other days worldwide. While Mother’s Day is celebrated on the second Sunday of May in most of the Americas, Argentine mothers have to wait until the third Sunday in October for their special occasion. The tradition dates back to 1931 when it was officially established, and stems from the Catholic Church’s Council of Ephesus in 431 when October 11th was made the “Day of the Divine Maternity of Mary”. It was pretty neat to be able to celebrate Mother’s Day twice this year! Further, it’s breast cancer awareness season in Cordoba. I’ve noticed people wearing pink ribbons on pins on their clothes and saw a health fair at one of the main squares. It’s a nice reminder to be grateful for my 17 year survivorship! Cordoba really did bring so many things full circle for me.

The transition from long term travel to retired life in the US has started, and I’ve put a good bit of my attention to the logistics for my return. I need to purchase a car, so searching for the right vehicle has started, including car insurance quotes. I’ve always enjoyed a manual transmission, and after 50 years of driving it, it’s a lifestyle choice that I’m not willing to change. So, for a used car in the US, the search requires a little more effort. I’ve rented my home out for 18 months, which means I won’t be returning to my house on Cape Cod until March of 2025. Mapping out where I’ll be and what I’ll do with my time has taken quite a bit of my attention, but he plan is coming together! I return to Boston in early November where I’ll buy a new car, have a few appointments, and visit with family and friends. Next, I’ll drive to Omaha, Nebraska to see Corrine and her family. After that, I’ll head south to Houston, Texas to spend Thanksgiving with Mike, Brittany and my brother Bill. Christmas will also be with family in Houston. My plan for January and February had been wide open until I got an email from All Hands and Hearts (a disaster relief charity) asking if I was interested in volunteering for Hurricane Helene cleanup. I volunteered with them in 2022 in Louisiana after Hurricane Ida and it was a very rewarding experience, so I went ahead and submitted my application with January and February dates. All Hands and Hearts specializes in disaster relief, working with local communities to fill in gaps not covered by federal and state assistance. They have already made a 12 month commitment to be on the ground in North Carolina and Florida post Hurricane Helene. The impact of the current hurricane season is so devastating and impactful to many communities and lives. My home is along the Atlantic coast and also subject to storms, rising ocean currents, and all of the effects of climate change, so I’m even more aware of the devastation natural disasters can cause. So, it felt like the natural thing to do, especially since I can’t return home until March.

While my plan for November to March of 2025 comes together, I’m also staying present in the moment and putting effort towards integrating into the new life that awaits me. I’ll return to the US a retired person– not a traveler nor a working woman. It’s a big life change. There are many articles, podcasts, blogs, etc that discuss the need to take care of life transitions as well as reintegrating after long term travel. It’s a well known fact that we’ve all felt– the let down after coming home from an amazing holiday. Couple that with starting retired life, and I realize why my body, mind and soul have been telling me to slow down now and take a breath, letting the events of the past year of traveling around the world settle into my bones. Traveling like I have been has taken its toll. It’s been totally worth every second, but my body feels the miles, my mind is so full of all of the details, and my soul yearns for peace and tranquility. So, I’ve been listening to that call for R&R: cooking healthy food to eat, going to the gym, taking walks just for the sake of walking, resting, and sleeping in late. I’m so grateful that I can do this now and share it with you, my beloved readers, family and friends, before the journey ends. Two mantras that are helping to remind me of this are “Mind the Gap” and “Coping Ahead”. “Mind the Gap” is a phrase I heard all of the time on the trains in the UK– a simple reminder to pay attention when exciting the train because of the space between the moving train and stationary walkway. That in-between space needs to be navigated with care and attention. These last weeks of my RTW journey are like that gap, that in between time when it could be easy to rush ahead, causing myself harm or missing an opportunity to reflect on my trip around the world. Over the years, I’ve learned through experience to listen to my body. Yoga, meditation, and even previous illnesses have taught me that it’s wiser to listen when my body speaks softly than to ignore the signs and pay a bigger price later. Transitions of any kind, big or small, are tricky to navigate. So, I’m being kind to myself, slowing down, and putting aside the worry that I’ll miss something or not have exciting things to write about in the blog. “Coping Ahead” is a preventative life skill strategy that is similar to putting aside money for a rainy day. When you know you have an upcoming big event or life change, take care now to slow down and do healthy and kind things for yourself. This technique builds up your reserves for what lies ahead so you can be at your best. I’m so excited to get back to the US, see family and friends, and experience the holidays at home. My future Christmas self will thank me for these restful days in Cordoba!

A few of the days were rainy and chilly, which I took as a sign to go inward. I’ve been transcribing my daily notes into a Google AI app called Notebook LM. It’s been a great way to reflect on the past year, learn some new tech skills, and feel grateful for the experiences I’ve had. Once everything is compiled, Corrine and I will evaluate the best way to share the year in review in a blog post. If you have any favorite locations, transportation methods, or questions about RTW in total, we’d love to hear from you! WIth the AI tool, I’ve been asking questions like “how many animals did Sharon see on safari?” or “what was the average time Sharon spent in each country?” You get the idea! Each day of my journey, I created a daily note which provided Corrine with the blog content and miles. I also included quantitative things like rating each day on a scale of 1 to 10, gratitude, weather, start and end time, and even a food journal. After reviewing all of my notes and docs in Notebook LM, I feel so grateful for this RTW journey and for Corrine’s support with the blog. Having accountability each day kept me on track to stick with my daily notes. The overall feeling is that I really did accomplish a lot and shared it with all of you as it unfolded (or shortly thereafter)! Most of all, the AI reports confirm that RTW was an authentic and really big accomplishment. I didn’t really need AI to validate that, but it was an added boost to get an “objective” reflection. There is so much more content that I am excited to share with you, and I’d love your feedback on what you’re most interested in! Until next time, dear friends: stay safe, stay healthy, and always remember to make space for what brings you joy.

Transitions are almost always signs of growth,
but they can bring feelings of loss.
To get somewhere new,
we may have to leave somewhere else behind.
-Fred Rogers